I did a bit of browsing on advice on how to sow Hellebore seeds and apparently there are a lot of different approaches, including some that are completely opposite to how I do it - so I guess each of you can experiment and find what works best for you.
However, as bought seeds are usually a bit on the steep side, here is what I do (I'm in a zone with winter temps. usually between -15 and +5 C, but most often on the milder side of that and summer temps. between 15-30 C. ). This is not the only way to successfully grow Hellebores from seeds, but I have found it to be both easy and reliable:
1) Always use fresh seeds if possible. I only buy seeds from nurseries specialising in Hellebores and only when the fresh seeds are available in fall/early winter. If you can't get fresh seeds, you will most likely need to give the seeds several cold/warm cycles to get (less) germination, but it is definitely possible.
2) If you harvest your own seeds (bee pods or otherwise) you need to be very vigilant and keep an eye on the ripening pods or they will drop their seeds before you get a chance to harvest them - you might want to use organza bags or similar if those seeds are important to you. The seeds are ripe when they turn dark brown or black, sometimes you can be lucky and spot when the pod starts to split at the top and that's usually the right time to get them. If (like me
) you are not the patient type, you can try gently squeezing the almost ripe pods to see if they give. Wear gloves!
3) If you harvested your own seeds, let them dry out for a week or two (up to a month in a shady place should not be a problem) and then sow them - if you bought seeds sow them as soon as you receive them.
4) Several of the sites I looked at before writing this recommend just lightly covering the seeds. In my experience this is not a good idea. Hellebore seeds do not need light to germinate and they do not (!) like to dry out while trying to germinate. When I first researched how best to sow hellebores I read somewhere that the fastest way to kill the seeds is to give them 'a shallow grave'. So I cover them in about 0.5-1 inch of seed mix or fine grit. Shallow sowing can work, but it takes an extra effort on part of the gardener to keep them moist and as germination can take all winter that is a lot of effort that could have been better spent.
5) Water and put in a damp/shady place outside until spring if you live in a zone with cold winters or, if you're in a warmer zone (with winter temps. above 5C) give the seedling pot(s) a month or two in the fridge around mid-winter and then put them back outside.
6) A thing I like about Hellebore seedlings is that they are much sturdier than most other seedlings, so prickling them out is a breeze. I grow them on in small individual pots for at least a year or two, but if you have a (new) bed with no competition, you can plant them out after their first summer.
Seed tray. Recycled grape container. The lid helps keep moisture in and the creatures out.
First year seedlings (Pardon the mess, I've not gotten around to cleaning out the potting shed yet.
)
2nd and 3rd year seedlings
3rd year H. niger seedling.
OK, that ended up a lot longer than intended. Hope it helps!
very much Lily for the advice on growing hellebores from seeds. I also bookmarked it to go back later in case I forget something.
.... 
( whispering to myself... I must get seeds asap from reliable sources this coming season)...(coyly...any suggestions apart those already posted)
