depends

if all the black stuff is gone ...and ....the wound has calloused over ... then maybe you can leave the remaining stems

keep an eye on things ....stem rot and fungus problems only get worse as time goes by ......

deepsouth said:depends

if all the black stuff is gone ...and ....the wound has calloused over ... then maybe you can leave the remaining stems

keep an eye on things ....stem rot and fungus problems only get worse as time goes by ......

Definitely calloused over, the area is shriveled but it's hard. When it originally happened leaves were straight black and yellow. I sprayed really hard two applications and now that it's inside in a controlled environment it's much better. I think that's why flower blooms were "browning" because my fertilizer had the chemical u mentioned baron I think. Can too much rain do that?

boron is called a "trace" or "micro" element ...plants need it, but only in very small amounts .....it is added to *some* fertilizers in very small amounts -
boron is necessary for healthy bud development & healthy flowering ...and if the plant is "old enough", aids in seed & pod development

browning flower buds could be a couple of things:
- heavy use of insecticides
- a nutritional problem - like zero boron is available to the roots
- not enough watering during hot spells
- buds getting too wet

if using "heavy neem oil" ....neem oil left on developing buds and not washed off - might also cause browning buds

deepsouth said:boron is called a "trace" or "micro" element ...plants need it, but only in very small amounts .....it is added to *some* fertilizers in very small amounts -
boron is necessary for healthy bud development & healthy flowering ...and if the plant is "old enough", aids in seed & pod development

browning flower buds could be a couple of things:
- heavy use of insecticides
- a nutritional problem - like zero boron is available to the roots
- not enough watering during hot spells
- buds getting too wet

if using "heavy neem oil" ....neem oil left on developing buds and not washed off - might also cause browning buds

Ugh so an update. Adeniums are the bane of my existence I just can't figure them out. So the stems with rot are fine, not only fine but theyre blooming small buds. I have three grow lights. One is a spider farmer sf 1000 it's really strong, another is a mars hydro which is great but not as strong tho and the third is a mix of red and blue lights. You see the main desert rose, leaves are crispy as hell. I don't get it. No way these lights are stronger than the sun, no sign of mites anywhere. For clarity my grow room has an east facing window but it's not enough sun. I plan to move my tables closer to the window and hang mylar. The room gets toasty and is pretty humid.

deepsouth said:

check the fertilizer labels ...looking for all of the micronutrients (aka: Trace minerals) Boron, Copper, Iron, Manganese, Molybdenum & Zinc ...adeniums do not need a lot of any kind of fertilzer .... but its necessary for plants grown with lots of inorganic material like perlite, rock & sand

Talking about fertilizer, usually I just apply makro nutrient NPK, and all of the new soil media will have a small amount of compost in the mix.
Last week I search the local market place for the most complete micro fertilizer, and this one so far is the most sophisticated one, made of seaweed

Have applied once, but only 1/15 of the factory recommended doze, too worry that it will kill the plants.

power270lb said:






leaves are crispy......

lights are too close .... plants are getting baked ....either raise the lights or lower the plants

place plants further apart and allow more air circulation .....

good to hear the spider mites are gone ....keep an eye out for scale and aphids

Kaktus said:
Talking about fertilizer, usually I just apply makro nutrient NPK, and all of the new soil media will have a small amount of compost in the mix.
Last week I search the local market place for the most complete micro fertilizer, and this one so far is the most sophisticated one, made of seaweed

Have applied once, but only 1/15 of the factory recommended doze, too worry that it will kill the plants.

that looks like a good one ..

wait a week and try 1/2 the recommended ..... at higher rates - and to prevent " fertilizer burn" - it is always a good idea to saturate the potting mix with water only ...then apply fertilizer ....

deepsouth said:

that looks like a good one ..

wait a week and try 1/2 the recommended ..... at higher rates - and to prevent " fertilizer burn" - it is always a good idea to saturate the potting mix with water only ...then apply fertilizer ....

Sure, but the thing is, this fertilizer is powder base, we have to dilute them with water for application. Do we still need to saturate the media before application?

its not that fertilizer is either powder or liquid base ....its the "N" nitrogen in all fertilizers ..... while nitrogen stimulates lush green growth in plants, too much of it, at once or over time is detrimental to the plant ...
the reason is the source of "N" nitrogen is ammonia & urea ....both contain salts .... it is these salts that "burn" roots and foliage .... applying "straight" water to the potting media first reduces fertilizer burn ...and flushes old fertilizer salts from the pot ....

the white crust often seen on pots ...is fertilizer salts

might hear or read that fresh manure is "too hot" for plants ...that is because it has high concentrations urea ... at this rate, it will kill plants ...not help them ....

deepsouth said:its not that fertilizer is either powder or liquid base ....its the "N" nitrogen in all fertilizers ..... while nitrogen stimulates lush green growth in plants, too much of it, at once or over time is detrimental to the plant ...
the reason is the source of "N" nitrogen is ammonia & urea ....both contain salts .... it is these salts that "burn" roots and foliage .... applying "straight" water to the potting media first reduces fertilizer burn ...and flushes old fertilizer salts from the pot ....

the white crust often seen on pots ...is fertilizer salts

might hear or read that fresh manure is "too hot" for plants ...that is because it has high concentrations urea ... at this rate, it will kill plants ...not help them ....

Sure , will do, thanks alot for the information.. Have seen how goat dung killed a 3 meters height pamelo tree before, not mine, my neighbor's , he applied 2 bags full for 1 tree.

I use quite a lot of manure for the fruits and flowers. some apply fresh, some have it fermented and composted in my compost barrel. Sometimes when we prepare a new media, the composting process still happening, the soil become hot and we have to wait for 1 month until the fermentation process completed and the soil cool down.

I'm thankful for the Agro-Thrive! I get the organic fertilizer boost in addition to my normal feeding regimen.

deepsouth said:


lights are too close .... plants are getting baked ....either raise the lights or lower the plants

place plants further apart and allow more air circulation .....

good to hear the spider mites are gone ....keep an eye out for scale and aphids

Copy that, people across bonsai boards are confusing. Some say to put the lights directly under them saying the further they are away the worse the light quality. How high would u raise it?

adenium are the "poor-mans" bonsai ... meaning we can grow an adenium and achieve what "looks like a bonsai" in just a few years, rather than several decades - just by lifting the adenium plant an inch or so in its pot once every few years & exposing more roots...as more roots get exposed, the more the adenium plant looks like an "ancient bonsai" ....

technically speaking - raising and exposing roots - has nothing to do with bonsai

raise lights -

would start with a dial thermometer ... hold or set dial thermometer just under lights for about 2 minutes ...if it reads over 80° ....you will need to raise lights .....by at least a foot ....
measure temperature between plant tops and light ....over 80° - raise lights .....

Kaktus said:
Talking about fertilizer, usually I just apply makro nutrient NPK, and all of the new soil media will have a small amount of compost in the mix.
Last week I search the local market place for the most complete micro fertilizer, and this one so far is the most sophisticated one, made of seaweed

Have applied once, but only 1/15 of the factory recommended doze, too worry that it will kill the plants.

I am using seaweed for hulk .

deepsouth said:
adenium are the "poor-mans" bonsai ... meaning we can grow an adenium and achieve what "looks like a bonsai" in just a few years, rather than several decades - just by lifting the adenium plant an inch or so in its pot once every few years & exposing more roots...as more roots get exposed, the more the adenium plant looks like an "ancient bonsai" ....

technically speaking - raising and exposing roots - has nothing to do with bonsai

raise lights -

would start with a dial thermometer ... hold or set dial thermometer just under lights for about 2 minutes ...if it reads over 80° ....you will need to raise lights .....by at least a foot ....
measure temperature between plant tops and light ....over 80° - raise lights .....

How often are you watering this time of year? The adenium seedlings that were struggling I put low powered grow lights directly over them and they've all bounced back. Crazy plant man. This big adenium has done nothing but give me a headache, the blooms develop then brown before they open and this was happening outside. Then the original adenium has stem rot and now it's blooming new flowers lol.

once every 30 days ....

will probably bump it to 45 days when i see more leaf drop, or as winter sets in, whichever comes first.... leaf drop and no growth signifies dormancy ....when the plant enters dormancy, the plants needs come to a stop - growth stops, so very little water and zero fertilizing are required by the plant...

in their natural habitat - adenium know only two seasons - wet and dry ....wet are summer months - dry are winter months

daylight is getting shorter, nights are getting longer ....plants sense that, and that triggers dormancy

signs of dormancy: leaf drop, yellowing leaves, no new stem growth, formation of flower buds cease, or abort, no new leaf growth < all that is completely normal and is to be expected ....

Plants need a rest .... they get that rest during dormancy

intense light not necessarily ... especially for "leaf-less" plants (leafless due to dormancy) ....rotate plants from windows to under lights at every watering ....

once inside ... plants are in "winter mode" .... watering amounts change from saturation, to only the volume of the pot or less ...
I would remove those fertilizer boxes / baskets for the winter ....not needed now

deepsouth said:
once every 30 days ....

will probably bump it to 45 days when i see more leaf drop, or as winter sets in, whichever comes first.... leaf drop and no growth signifies dormancy ....when the plant enters dormancy, the plants needs come to a stop - growth stops, so very little water and zero fertilizing are required by the plant...

in their natural habitat - adenium know only two seasons - wet and dry ....wet are summer months - dry are winter months

daylight is getting shorter, nights are getting longer ....plants sense that, and that triggers dormancy

signs of dormancy: leaf drop, yellowing leaves, no new stem growth, formation of flower buds cease, or abort, no new leaf growth < all that is completely normal and is to be expected ....

Plants need a rest .... they get that rest during dormancy

intense light not necessarily ... especially for "leaf-less" plants (leafless due to dormancy) ....rotate plants from windows to under lights at every watering ....

once inside ... plants are in "winter mode" .... watering amounts change from saturation, to only the volume of the pot or less ...
I would remove those fertilizer boxes / baskets for the winter ....not needed now

So another update, wish this site gave me notifications because I forget to check. So I barely see new growth (a few leaves) on the big adenium. The adenium that had the stem rot had little blooms but haven't budged at all which makes me think what u wrote (dormant.) The seedlings ever since I moved inside are growing great and look healthy. I don't get a lot of light in these windows so would moving the bigger desert roses off to the side (a few feet away from the lights) suffice? The window in my plant room is east facing and gets sun maybe a few hours a day.

the leaves are turning yellow, possibly you lights are too close to the plant.

light too close -

the yellowing around the leaf margins - isnt normal - think what is causing that, is too much fertilzer - that the plant cant use or store ....along with the lighting that is too hot and too close ...plants confused & baked

cut back on any fertilzer until next spring - and lift the lighting .... perhaps another foot

windows -

off to side will work ...

south facing will have the most sunlight - assuming the light isnt blocked by trees or buildings .... east and west will have sunlight half the day (AM east window / PM west window) ..... North wont have direct sunlight - but there is ambient light - and while ambient is on the "weak side" of light, it is usable light for plants ..... 1/4 of my plants are at my North window now - older plants will stay there, younger plants will get rotated to either south, west or under lighting next time they are watered

every now and then - rotate your plants - by windows - under lights ....

deepsouth said: light too close -

the yellowing around the leaf margins - isnt normal - think what is causing that, is too much fertilzer - that the plant cant use or store ....along with the lighting that is too hot and too close ...plants confused & baked

cut back on any fertilzer until next spring - and lift the lighting .... perhaps another foot

windows -

off to side will work ...

south facing will have the most sunlight - assuming the light isnt blocked by trees or buildings .... east and west will have sunlight half the day (AM east window / PM west window) ..... North wont have direct sunlight - but there is ambient light - and while ambient is on the "weak side" of light, it is usable light for plants ..... 1/4 of my plants are at my North window now - older plants will stay there, younger plants will get rotated to either south, west or under lighting next time they are watered

every now and then - rotate your plants - by windows - under lights ....

This tree is struggling. I moved it away from the powerful lights it's under a light that emits only red/blue lights, I put the smaller adeniums under there originally and they grew but ATM I don't know what to do with this tree. I only have east and west facing windows and where I'm situated it's mostly ambient light mixed with maybe a couple hours of direct sun. Recently noticed aphid shells from molting so I just had to spray everything down, may just buy lady bugs. A lot of the top was singed from being under the more powerful lights it's just crazy because the rest of my bonsai thrive even growing aerial roots inside. The red/blue light really isn't strong at all. Removed fertilizer, not sure what to do.