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Aug 1, 2021 12:01 AM CST
Thread OP

I've been trying to propagate Hardy hibiscus (H. moscheutos) from cuttings for three years now with no success.
The problem is always the same: after 3/4 days the cuttings start drying up and a week later they are dry twigs.

I've tried changing the propagation medium, providing more or less soil moisture, more or less air moisture, providing total shade, using longer cuttings, using shorter cuttings... this year I've even used Clonex, which is basically the Rolls-Royce of rooting compounds, and it didn't make a dent.
The results are always the same.
I've given a thought about rooting them in water, but I've always had serious troubles potting cuttings that rooted in water, and I'd like to avoid that road.

Is there anything I am missing here? People make propagating these plants from cuttings a walk in the park but it obviously isn't.

Thanks.
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Aug 1, 2021 3:15 AM CST
Name: Svend Hรธst
Copenhagen (Zone 7b)
Put them in water , and place it in shade . no direct sunligt , after 2-3 weeks there will be some roots , its time to move cuttings into pots / containers , use a compost soil and keep it wet , stil in shade , when you can see roots in holes in the bottom of the pots/container , then they are ready for outdoor placement.
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Aug 1, 2021 6:16 AM CST
Thread OP

Thanks, but I prefer not to propagate in water: I just cannot get rooted cuttings (of anything) to survive the trasplant.
Avatar for sw_gardener
Aug 5, 2021 3:46 PM CST
Name: Steven
Ontario, Canada (Zone 5b)
Can you slice a cutting off the crown of the plant when it's emerging in the spring? Make sure some of the crown from below soil level is attached and intact.

I haven't tried this with Hibiscus but I've successfully done it with other perennials.
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Aug 8, 2021 8:25 PM CST
Name: SkirtGardener
Central Pennsylvania (Zone 5a)
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I don't usually like rooting in water, either, but it should be noted that this species of hibiscus are bog plants. So they are even more suited to this than most. At the very least, soil moisture and humidity staying high is probably a good thing. But they are also sun plants, so I wouldn't put them in total (deep) shade. Bright shade is probably good.

I've been successful with a few cuttings, but my stock plants are pretty small yet to do more than that.
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Specializing in a full spectrum variety of trees and shrubs, occasionally with perennials as an incidental bonus.
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Aug 9, 2021 7:46 AM CST
Name: Tiffany purpleinopp
Opp, AL @--`--,----- ๐ŸŒน (Zone 8b)
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If one is only willing to try 1 thing and it isn't working, the difficulty level & results are unlikely to change. I love rooting things in water because I'm good @ things that require me to ignore something for weeks at a time.

Woody entities generally are most likely to take root at the semi-hardwood spot, or the fresh green growth. If your cuts are down into already woody material, I would be less hopeful for success, though Hibiscus is not a genus with which I've done much in regard to propagation. The principles are fairly universal.

I usually let a significant amount of roots form before grounding. To plant, dig a hole, hold the plant with 1 hand and push dirt around the roots and gently firm it just enough so the plant is secure, then water thoroughly, at least every-other day for the first couple of weeks, gradually increasing the interval to hopefully weekly watering, but water as often as needed until your entity is established to the point of being self-sufficient, except during long intervals of no rain.

Putting a lawn chair or little table or some other type of temporary shade over a newly grounded entity can help give it some time to acclimate w/o too much baking. Shading like that can help a new planting regardless of its' origin.

You could try ground layering to the actual ground, or to an adjacent pot. Or air layering if you want to get fancy.
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Sep 7, 2021 6:40 AM CST
Name: Gigi AdeniumPlumeria
Florida (Zone 9b)
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Try using a 2 litter soda bottle or any transparent plastic bottle big enough to cover the pot as mini-greehouse.

I usually root the top end or semi-hardwood (6 to 8 inches long) remove buds but just leaving 2 leaves on. Soak the branches with water mixed with hydrogen peroxide. Then use the same solution to water your planted cuttings thoroughly and let it semi dry before watering.
ยฉby Gigi Adenium Plumeria "Gardening is my favorite pastime. I grow whatever plant that catches my attention. I also enjoy hand pollinating desert roses.โ€
Last edited by GigiPlumeria Sep 7, 2021 11:00 AM Icon for preview
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Sep 17, 2021 3:33 PM CST
Name: stone
near Macon Georgia (USA) (Zone 8a)
Garden Sages Million Pollinator Garden Challenge Plant Identifier
Do your plants produce seed?

I have some that do not... And like you, cuttings weren't working out...

For me, what worked was to dig and divide when the green sprouts first show up in early spring.

But, if you can get them to produce seed... that would be easiest.
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Sep 18, 2021 10:21 PM CST
PNW/SW WA State (Zone 8b)
ElPolloDiablo, I find that they root better when they are actively growing. I just recut and stick directly into a pot with
soil, place in cool area close to the house shade. You want to keep the soil damp but not wet. So far I have harvested the white with red center seeds with a tint of pink. I have seedpods on red and pink. Let me know if you are interested. I have a couple of pots with cuttings but they won't be ready until spring.

Some Perennial Hibiscus produce seedpods, some do not.
Last edited by karmahappytoes Sep 19, 2021 10:40 AM Icon for preview
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