Oooooooh.......! That one is so..feminine in appearance. What does it smell like? Pretty pink bands of color on the reverse side of the petals, too.

And who wouldn't be??

Gorgeous!! I love it only seeing it in the picture!

The growth from your first picture to the last is amazing!!

Lovely lovely blooms!

I confess...your blooms inspired me to look into, and purchase......Penang Peach, cause it scored 3 out of 3, for me. (A perfect score =1-fragrance, 1= miniature, dwarf, or at most, compact in size, or extremely slow -growing, and 1=pretty or even striking coloration, preferably with full inflos). Thai Orange looks like it might score well, too, depending on it's growth -habit.

Thai Orange is almost identical to Penang Peach.

No matter, then. My space is limited ; I can't see any sense in duplicates, no matter how lovely....I have enough plumeria, anyway.....and am very happy with the ones I chose. Hope they'll do well here, and survive our infernal dry summer heat!!

Ive, those look awesome! How much / how often were you watering BEFORE the leaves appeared?

I'm picking up 4 cuttings tomorrow (1) Charlotte Ebert, (1) Kona -26, (2) G. Sunsets and (1) Nassa.

I'm really psyched especially after seeing your success! Maybe there's hope for my black thumb afterall!

So, I picked up my cuttings this evening and while there received some "tips". Here's some of what I was told:

-Leave them in the bag paper bag and put them in a cool place to dry out.
-Don't do anything for 3-4 days.
-When I DO put them in a pot, water well, but not again for 6 weeks.
-Begin watering every 6-7 days once the first bloom appears.

Does that all sound about right?

Mike, I have never heard of any of these suggestions and there is so much missing here. Why the (brown) paper bag? A shaded area is just fine. You could certainly wait 3-4 days and even much, much longer than that - but why? Just have the cut ends calloused and you will be good to go. What do you pot them in - clay, sand, perlite, potting soil, sphagnum moss, etc.? I don't agree with anything next -water well and then nothing for 6 weeks. Once they are rooted, and this has absolutely nothing to do with blooming, water them when they are dry. I have sent you a lot of information before, so you can take this additional information for what its worth.

..."Just have the cut ends calloused"?

I thought I would pot them in the black, 1 gallon pots. Also, leave 1" from the top of the pot and fill that with pea gravel to help support to cutting until it roots...?

I would only water the cutting on the initial time of potting it, and wait till you get the leaves to open, before you water again. Clawing leaves does not count, has to be fully open leaves.. that's what I have learned during my frustrating attempts to root cuttings. And I would put the containers in a part shade area while it is rooting, it might just burn or be more stressed if put in full sun right away.

Good luck Mike! Hope you find success in rooting your cuttings. You are lucky, you got better temps and weather than I do here.

Thanks Tarev. I'm going to give it a shot and see what happens. Hopefully I'll get some blooms before they "shut down" for the winter! Otherwise, I'm not sure how I'd tell if it was successful or not.

I'll keep you posted throughout the next few weeks.

That is my worry too on my 4th attempt..I am running out of summer For myself, I would be happy enough to see some leaves open at least, then I am sure it has indeed rooted..getting the inflo before the leaves, would be nice, but does not count either..need to see the fully formed leaf. ..but till then, will just hope it will not end up getting blackened tips or rotted base. See I got many attempts so you are in good company in rooting plumies. I have a back-up now though, I got a rooted plant from Ken. Will look forward to your updates!

Tarev/Mike. IF your cuttings have not rooted before fall/winter, I would remove them from their pot(s) and store them in a plastic bag (left open) or perhaps in that brown paper bag mentioned before. Remember, all my plumeria will be forced to go dormant, so I will have mine in large plastic bags to overwinter regardless. The cuttings, or for me cuttings and rooted plants, will de-hydrate some, during those four or so months, perhaps losing 20-25% of their thickness, but when they are potted up again in the spring, they will regain that moisture and plump up quickly.

I tried last year (another experiment of mine) to root several of my varieties during the winter months, and it was a dismal failure. I don't think a single one rooted. For me at least, I would only root cuttings March-October. I have learned my lesson!

Agree with you on the rooting time..Spring always the best time. I have read somewhere, there is this guy who also trying to root during winter. The only success he got was rooting it in water, and as long as the water stays at temps of 60 to 65F. Interesting experiment, but I think too much work for me if ever, monitoring and keeping those temps during winter. Might as well let the cutting sleep it off, and wait for Mother Nature to wake it up on its own time.

Dawg / Tarev,
I agree, but keep in mind that in Southern California (10a) very rarely will it fall below 60* until December so I'm hoping I still have enough time!

Mike, I don't know if the rooting problem is even related to temperature. When I attempted to root those last winter I did so in a heated greenhouse and the temperature never got below 55F. Perhaps plumeria, like many plants and animals, are controlled more by length of daylight than by temperature. I just don't know but I bet there is someone out there who will have that answer.

But that being said, I am still rooting plumeria right now. I just won't start any rootings after September.

Ok, good. Even with the "length of daylight" theory, I SHOULD be ok to see some blooms before they shut down for the winter IF they root.

I'm really hoping so, because the cuttings I bought yesterday should be really awesome considering what they look like in photos!