Hello,
I have been growing a plumeria tree from a cutting for 4 years now.

Problem 1: The tree is very tall, but I have yet to see a single flower. So no branches.

Problem 2: Every season the leaves get spots on them as shown in the pics. The spots haven't seemed to really affect the plant much. This year I had no spots until after I repotted.

Problem 3: Droopy leaves and spots after re-potting. I recently in mid June repotted the tree (it was 2 years since the last repotting to a bigger pot). I used Miracle Grow cactus mix and perlite (4:1). I also added the Hawaiian Bud & Bloom fertilizer after bumping the ph up to 6.5 using baking soda. As an aside, why is the ph of that fertilizer at 5.5? Isn't that too low?? At first, after repotting, everything seemed fine except the leaves got wilty/rubbery stems. I thought maybe it was overwatered. After a couple of weeks and the soil drying out (still had the wilty stems), I rewatered and added more (1/2 cup) of the Hawiian Bud & Bloom at the normal 5.5 ph (no baking soda added). After that watering, the plant stopped producing new leaves all together and it started getting the spots. What happened??

I live at Lake Tahoe and run a humidifier at night near the tree. The tree sits in my window and gets very little direct light, varying depending on time of year, but it is a nice bright window. I keep my indoor temps around 72-76 all the time. I previously lived on the Oregon coast and had the same issues with the spots, but never had wilty/rubbery stems. I had previously only used bone meal as a fertilizer. I use tap water now to water with. When I was in Oregon I collected rain water to use (still had the spots). I don't know the exact type of plumeria. It's from a tree that was in my yard when I previously lived on Maui. It has the white/yellow flowers. I am NOT a plant person so this is all an experiment for me. The only thing I've done is test the ph to make sure the soil is in the correct range (6.5-7.0). I'm wondering if the little dark spots on the underside of the leaves are a fungus or from bugs? Last year I had some kind of little spider (maybe spider mites?) that made little silky webs around the stems. I was able to see the little guys and so I would just take a q-tip and sort of clean them off. Haven't seen any of that this year.

You are growing a tropical plant and as such it enjoys warm temperatures, 65-85+, good direct sunlight and occasional fertilizer. I grew several for years when I lived in Florida.
Down there mine bloomed regularly and went dormant ever winter. Even in the Fort Myers area. They would start to lose leaves in early October and be leafless until good sunlight returned starting in late February. I fed them every 4-6 weeks @1/2 tsp per gallon.
You can feed them too much so they don't bloom. Good sunlight, 6 hours a day is the key.
But having said that, they are not the easiest to grow and flower in northern climates.
Marks on the undersides of the leaves usually mean bugs. False spider mites were my # 1 problem.

I hope others will stop by and offer advice. I have always looked at fertilizer as a way to support good growth and flowering. It can not make up for insufficient light and temperature that are too cool.

@diane_m with Big Bill, lack of 6 to 8 hours of full sun could be the reason for your #1 problem. Although I have some that are in full sun right now that are just refusing to bloom.

# 2 could be plumeria rust, unfortunately you can't avoid plumeria rust but it will not kill your plumeria.

#3 roots gets disturb will make the plumeria droopy while adjusting to new (presumably bigger pot) and will stopped being droopy once established. Also plant stopped producing leaves because maybe it is starting to form buds? Only time can tell.
And they are susceptible to spider mites if grown indoors.

BigBill said: You are growing a tropical plant and as such it enjoys warm temperatures, 65-85+, good direct sunlight and occasional fertilizer. I grew several for years when I lived in Florida.
Down there mine bloomed regularly and went dormant ever winter. Even in the Fort Myers area. They would start to lose leaves in early October and be leafless until good sunlight returned starting in late February. I fed them every 4-6 weeks @1/2 tsp per gallon.
You can feed them too much so they don't bloom. Good sunlight, 6 hours a day is the key.
But having said that, they are not the easiest to grow and flower in northern climates.
Marks on the undersides of the leaves usually mean bugs. False spider mites were my # 1 problem.

I hope others will stop by and offer advice. I have always looked at fertilizer as a way to support good growth and flowering. It can not make up for insufficient light and temperature that are too cool.

GigiPlumeria said: @diane_m Welcome! I agree with Big Bill, lack of 6 to 8 hours of full sun could be the reason for your #1 problem. Although I have some that are in full sun right now that are just refusing to bloom.

# 2 could be plumeria rust, unfortunately you can't avoid plumeria rust but it will not kill your plumeria.

#3 roots gets disturb will make the plumeria droopy while adjusting to new (presumably bigger pot) and will stopped being droopy once established. Also plant stopped producing leaves because maybe it is starting to form buds? Only time can tell.
And they are susceptible to spider mites if grown indoors.

Thanks for your responses. The plant is still very droopy and has not grown at all. The leaves have gotten a little worse on yellowing and one more died. I did not repot it into a bigger pot - it was the same exact pot. I wanted to re-start the soil with the "correct" fertilizer to see if that would get it to flower. I let the soil pretty much dry out . I don't have any reason for doing that other than it seemed like a good idea?? Like I said, I'm not a plant person and so maybe that was bad? But I watered it now and I cut 4 out of the 9 leaves off because I am assuming it has some transplant shock. Since it also likely has some kind of bug or fungus or something, should I take all of the leaves off? I do not have a screen on my window so a few bugs do get in - mostly flies that always exit on their own, and little gnats and other tiny flying things. Nothing bothersome. But perhaps there were bugs in the soil because the spots didn't appear until after I repotted it.

I have left the plant outside during the day in partial sunlight in the summer in the past, but have not done so this summer because I didn't want it to get bugs. My understanding is that the leaves will burn because it is not typically in direct sunlight. I only have one window so can't change the light situation. I can put it outside during the day so it gets more sunlight. I would still have to bring it in some nights if it's too chilly.

@Teamcll any additional suggestion? I think low light is a factor.

Problem #1 is it is indoors getting "very little direct light". It needs lots of that.
Problem #2 is your soil ratio. You say cactus mix and perlite 4:1 when it should be closer to 1:1. Especially if it is indoors not getting direct light and heat.
I can honestly say that I have never once checked the ph of any soil, and plant, ever. So, I wouldn't put too much stock in that. For such a small plant, it seems to me that you're trying to do too much?
As for repotting, I repot all of my plumeria up to 4-5 times a year with very little drooping. If you washed all the soil off the root ball when you did this, that could cause some shock. It should still recover. You definitely want to acclimate it to direct sun over time, not just throw it into the fire to avoid sunburn. It's been 100° to 106° Where I am, and I'm getting plenty of crispy leaves, but they will grow new ones. Just don't want the trunk or branches to get burned or dehydrated too much. That being said.
Fix your soil, get it outside, don't baby it.

TeamCll said: Problem #1 is it is indoors getting "very little direct light". It needs lots of that.
Problem #2 is your soil ratio. You say cactus mix and perlite 4:1 when it should be closer to 1:1. Especially if it is indoors not getting direct light and heat.
I can honestly say that I have never once checked the ph of any soil, and plant, ever. So, I wouldn't put too much stock in that. For such a small plant, it seems to me that you're trying to do too much?
As for repotting, I repot all of my plumeria up to 4-5 times a year with very little drooping. If you washed all the soil off the root ball when you did this, that could cause some shock. It should still recover. You definitely want to acclimate it to direct sun over time, not just throw it into the fire to avoid sunburn. It's been 100° to 106° Where I am, and I'm getting plenty of crispy leaves, but they will grow new ones. Just don't want the trunk or branches to get burned or dehydrated too much. That being said.
Fix your soil, get it outside, don't baby it.

Thank you!! I have put it outside during the day and it's now getting direct sun from about 10-3. I acclimated it over a couple of weeks in partial shade/sun. It has started regrowing so I'm happy about that. I still have to bring it in most nights as temps regularly drop below 50. I'm afraid to re-pot it again!! I was going to wait until next spring to avoid shocking it again so soon. I also think the pot is slightly too big compared to the root ball. I did not rinse it, but I did break it up a bit to get the old soil off the roots Would it be a bad idea to just lop off the top and start it over? Can I even do that? I'm just worried it's going to be weak due to it being so tall with no branches.

Don't cut it off. Just stake it for support. Once it gets healthy, it will get stronger. I stake everything from seedlings to trees.