Hi guys! I have an out of control garden that I inherited and cannot maintain. It is an oval-ish area that reaches the sidewalk that sits on the border to my neighbor's yard. There is POISON IVY all throughout that I've tried to both remove by hand and using ivy killer. The roots are deep and interwoven under these big azaleas and are just impossible to get to. There are yucca, hosta, azaleas, liriope, and showy stonecrop. And some random trees here and there.

So, I think I've all but decided to give up and dig up this whole garden and just plant a coniferous tree there for noise control, ease of maintenance and privacy.

This is gonna be hard, right? Like should I cut everything as small as I can and then dig it up, or could I like cover the whole area with a tarp and everything will die or how do I begin this undertaking?

You will need a brush killer liquid to kill the poison ivy.
https://extension.uga.edu/publ...
Herbicide Control Methods

Numerous herbicides are available for controlling poison ivy. Read all label directions before using any herbicide.

Because poison ivy has an extensive root system, multiple herbicide applications are usually necessary for effective control. Repeat applications should be made at the full-leaf stage of growth.
Glyphosate

Glyphosate is the active herbicidal ingredient in Roundup® (numerous other trade names for glyphosate are sold in retail outlets). Glyphosate is applied directly to poison ivy foliage. The best control is achieved when glyphosate is applied on a warm, sunny day when plants are actively growing. Glyphosate requires a one-hour rain-free period for maximum activity.

Glyphosate is a systemic herbicide and is translocated throughout plant leaves, stems and roots. The best control with glyphosate occurs when it is applied to poison ivy plants in the flower or fruit stage of growth. Applications at earlier stages of growth are not as effective; however, it may not always be practical to delay application until poison ivy is in the flower or fruit stage. Flowering generally occurs in the early summer months in Georgia.

Glyphosate can cause severe injury to other, desirable plants if the spray droplet particles contact the foliage or immature, green bark. Glyphosate should not be applied on windy days. Coarse sprays with large spray droplets rather than fine mist applications should be used to minimize drift.

Glyphosate may be used along fence rows, as a spot treatment in turfgrasses and pastures, and as a directed treatment in ornamentals and fruit and nut trees. In situations where poison ivy has grown into the canopy of large trees, up walls or other vertical structures, glyphosate can be used in combination with clipping the vine. In this method, the poison ivy vines are cut 2 to 3 feet above the soil surface. This will kill the portions of poison ivy above the cut. The remaining vine can be treated with concentrated glyphosate. A glyphosate concentrate of at least 41% can be used to treat the cut portion of this stem. It is recommend to paint the fresh cut with full strength glyphosate solution or a 50% dilution in water. This treatment should occur within 48 hours of cutting the glyphosate vine. If any regrowth is seen, it should be retreated with a 5% or 10% treatment solution.

Again, it is recommend to use at least a 41% glyphosate solution for treatment — approximately 6 to 12 oz of a 41% glyphosate solution to 1 gallon of water. Foliage, once fully expanded, should be sprayed until runoff occurs. If poison ivy is growing on trees, one should not be concerned if treatment is occurring on trees with mature, course brown bark of large trees, as no injury should occur to the tree. If inspection of the bark reveals green tissue, as is commonly found on deciduous trees that have been planted for one to two years, do not spray glyphosate on the bark of the tree.
2,4-D

2,4-D is either sold alone or in mixtures with herbicides such as MCPP, dicamba and triclopyr. 2,4-D is only marginally effective in controlling poison ivy. Products that contain 2,4-D in combination with dicamba and triclopyr will provide better poison ivy control than 2,4-D alone. However, dicamba (Banvel) or triclopyr (numerous trade names) will usually provide better control than the herbicides that contain 2,4-D as one of the components in the mixture. 2,4-D and 2,4-D mixtures are applied at the full leaf expansion growth stage of poison ivy. Repeat treatments will be needed to control new flushes of growth.

2,4-D and 2,4-D mixtures will not injure most turfgrasses and other grasses; however, numerous broadleaf plants (e.g., ornamentals, fruit trees, muscadines, grapes, cotton, tobacco and many vegetables) are highly sensitive to 2,4-D and spray drift can severely injure these plants. 2,4-D drift injury can be minimized by using coarse sprays and by staying several feet away from sensitive plants. 2,4-D products are formulated as either amine salts or esters. Ester formulations of 2,4-D are subject to vapor drift, especially at high air temperatures (> 80° F.). Volatilization or vapor drift of 2,4-D ester herbicides can injure sensitive plants at considerable distances from the original site of application. Ester formulations should not be used during the warm months of the year. Follow labeled directions for use of product on weedy growth or cut stump applications.
Triclopyr

Triclopyr is a highly effective postemergence herbicide used for controlling poison ivy and numerous other woody vines. This herbicide is sold under a wide variety of trade names for use in commercial agriculture, forestry and noncropland areas. Most of these products are not sold in lawn and garden stores and other retail outlets. However, Ortho® markets a brand name of triclopyr called Brush-B-Gon® in numerous retail outlets. For most homeowners, Brush-B-Gon ® is the preferred triclopyr formulation.

Similar to 2,4-D, triclopyr should be applied to poison ivy at the full leaf growth stage on a warm, sunny day. Triclopyr can also injure desirable broadleaf plants by spray droplet drift and use should be avoided on windy days. Follow labeled directions for use of product on actively growing weedy growth. Unlike glyphosate, triclopyr solutions should not be sprayed on the mature bark of trees. Triclopyr can be absorbed through the bark of some tree species and cause severe injury.

Triclopyr (Brush-B-Gon®) is recommended for use around homes, fences and in non-garden areas. It can be used near ornamentals, but do not spray when wind conditions favor spray drift.

Triclopyr is commonly used to prevent the regrowth of sprouts from tree stumps. When used in this fashion, undiluted triclopyr is "painted" on the sides and cut surface of the freshly cut tree stump. This "cut stump" method can be adapted to control poison ivy. Simply clip the poison ivy vine near the soil surface and "paint" the freshly cut surface with undiluted triclopyr. This method is useful for the control of small infestations of poison ivy in areas that are difficult or not practical to spray. Some regrowth of poison ivy will eventually occur and the "cut stump" method will need to be repeated.

Kill that and go from there.

I would not dig up the garden, way too much work. I would cut all plants to the ground (brush hog, if you can borrow one) and then apply roundup to the new growth. It may take a few applications and you could cover it as well. I have found yucca very hard to kill. I dug one up and applied weed killer a couple of years ago and after many applications of killer I am still getting new growth.

Yucca never wants to die. It's a pain in the butt to get rid of. I yank mine out every year and still...Although it may seem daunting I see lots of possibilities in your garden. I would take the "Dr.s " advice but be prepared for some hard work.

Bschmuck - There are also organic weed and brush killer that are safe for the yard. Once sprayed cover with a tarp let the temps heat up the area and block any rain water. And it will also protect any animals from snacking on the area sprayed.
Also horticultural vinegar is much stronger than household vinegar. Works well on weeds and any plant. It's takes a few days to see a difference and it's what I uses in my garden and it's pet friendly.
https://www.familyhandyman.com...

Since a tree will be planted in place be sure to wait 3-4 weeks once all is cleared from the area. What type of tree are you planning on placing in the cleared area?
Evergreen or deciduous? There are some nice flowering trees and beautiful evergreen trees.

Just a thought.. are there any neighbors or friends that would dig up a plant or two to take home. Plants are so spendy , maybe free plants would be enticing for others to dig and remove some for you . Or contact a garden club in your district thru the extension service .

If you're willing to spend a few bucks hire someone with a bobcat to come by and dig it all out in one shot*. It'll cost you some bucks, but it'll be done quickly and the bobcat can dig down and get a lot of the big roots. Be sure to tell them about the poison ivy before they start.



*You'll probably have to clean up the survivors for a few years.

I would vote for Henderman's method. Unless you really want to devote a lot of time to getting rid of those plants.

Weedwhacker said: I would vote for Henderman's method. Unless you really want to devote a lot of time to getting rid of those plants.

I totally agree!

Henderman said: If you're willing to spend a few bucks hire someone with a bobcat to come by and dig it all out in one shot*. It'll cost you some bucks, but it'll be done quickly and the bobcat can dig down and get a lot of the big roots. Be sure to tell them about the poison ivy before they start.

Having driven 5 different makes when I landscaped , it can dig it out but then you will be replacing a LARGE portion of your lawn, and you will have to have replacement dirt hauled in and leveled out, with scrap dirt hauled away.

It is NOT a one shot deal, to get roots you must go down well over a foot; skid-steer buckets do not dig like a shovel .
Also, most areas are fussy about the scrap dirt with poison ivy, in Minnesota it is specially regulated.

Skid-steers are wonderful tools for many tasks but are often far more destructive to surrounding areas that people realize.

Addendum:
Looking at the photos, IF, if a skid steer came in from the street side, and just leveled he bucket on the sidewalk, it could just keep the bucket down and keep going straight till it reached the far side of the garden.
There would be some boulevard grass needing fixing, and make sure the side walk is not ruined but in your case it could be a relatively simple job. (That does not mean cheap.)
Removal and replacing dirt would be one half the cost, and up here dirt is cheap.
IF the poison Ivy were already killed , the person doing the job would be much happier.
In one weed whacking job we had once, the person who hired us wanted me to weed whack an area full of Poison Ivy, I said NO, I will not do that area, never got pushed any farther.

The Sedum would be easy to save. Cut each stem @ soil level and replant elsewhere.

Otherwise, it doesn't make sense to use 'cide since you'll need to manually remove stumps anyway.

I would think the poison ivy would have to be killed before anything else was done; fortunately not something I've ever had to deal with, though.

I think I'm seeing a different garden than the other posters.

That looks like a tiny postage stamp bed.

Looks like a shrub or two... grown over with Canada goldenrod.

Also those horrible yucca, and some blackeyed susans.

What I would do...Dig up a few beds elsewhere... Dig some of those plants that you like and plant in those afore-mentioned holding beds...

And then? Start digging stuff out with a mattock.
Really not nearly the project other people seem to think.

If you are unfamiliar with the operation of a "Mexican backhoe", Maybe you could hire a gardener to dig everything out.

The yuccas are going to be difficult to exterminate... but everything else? No biggie.

Edit:
As far as poison ivy is concerned.... I dig that out (with mattock), and toss on pile... no problem.

Agree, also my first reaction, but when somebody says they don't want something, I don't try to argue them into wanting it. Or at least I didn't this time. I probably have before. That discussion would have asked how to save it.

How about a sign
FREE HOSTA-- SEDUM-- MORE -- YOU DIG -- THIS GARDEN BED ONLY..-- BEWARE OF POISON IVY
and see what happens? MIght get rid of some anyway.

Or you start the digging and leave items in bags with Free sign.

Goldenrod is valuable right now , leave it alone a bit. Start by pruning a shrub, see what you can get to once it is out of the way. Beware of poison ivy sneaking up though branches..

You will have to physically remove a lot of that , you can't just carve out a hole and stick a conifer and expect it to overgrow everything. Certainly not in any kind of tolerable time frame if you already don't like this look.

Gosh. I had to read the initial post twice. Except for the poison ivy, it looks a awful lot like my garden that I have been striving for forever to have it look like that. Wild, unkempt, natural, like walking into nature. I would think about furthering that idea because, with the exception of removing the poison ivy and maybe some edging and replantings here and there, you have a beautiful wild and natural garden. From experience of trying to duplicate that, it takes years to accomplish that. For those who like structured gardens, they look at a garden like that and feel it's out of control, however, for those like me who like naturalized gardens, it's almost perfect.