It's messy and stinky but I want them out of the house and garden when I do it so I move them all to my screened porch. You could also use the garage or a shed. When you move them in it won't smell as bad as when you first applied the insecticides. You could spray them thoroughly with water first. I don't do that cause I wouldn't be able to move/lift my big containers if they were wet when I try to move them.

Spray insecticidal soap all over both sides of foliage (it will be dripping and may turn some of the leaves yellow). Scratch in systemic insecticide granules in soil and water soil. In one week repeat insecticidal soap on foliage. Look around soil to see if there are rolly pollys, ants, spiders or any other bugs and if there are scratch in some more systemic insecticide granules and water in. Wait one week to bring in plants (won't be as heavy, smelly or dripping). Water in two weeks and if you see ants or any bugs, scratch in another application of systemic insecticide granules. If you see ants lay one of those ready made ant boxes from terro on the soil of each container. You will see more ants at first and then bam, gone. I only have really big containers. Suppose if you have small pots you will need to experiment to see if the ants take the bait to other pots or if you need to apply to each pot.

Don't continue to use systemic, as you want it to fade so as not to kill the beneficials when you move it outside in the spring.

Once you use systemic and/or terro keep away from pets and wildlife.

I have hummers, butterflies and bees among all the other insects so I know my systemic isn't having an adverse effect when I move the containers back outside.

My containers are mostly small, nothing larger than 3 gallon (except for the useless lemon tree, which I haven't even moved outdoors yet). I have a nice, big, enclosed back porch with big windows on the east and south sides where I overwinter my pots. But it always ends up with aphids, whiteflies and fungus gnats. I'll have to try your method this winter 'cause I have a bunch of new plants that will need overwintering. I usually put up a barricade so my idiot malamute can't mess with the plants. If it's aromatic, he tries to roll in it, if it's little he grabs the pots, empties them out and crunches the pot. Idiot.

I'm crossing my fingers for ya. Sounds like the systemic is good against all those insects.

Should work just fine. I was just a bit nervous about using systemics more often than the label recommends, only because I was concerned it might damage the plant. Now, when you say insecticidal soap, are you talking about just an oil/soap mix or something specific? Only oil I have is Volck oil.

A store bought product that such as Garden Safe which is formulated precisely to handle this problem such as (not home made formula or concoction)
http://www.gardensafe.com/Prod...

http://www.extension.org/pages...

http://gardening.wsu.edu/libra...

Regarding systemics...positively use as directed. When I do that and it doesn't seem to alleviate the problem I reapply in a small amount never exceeding the recommended applications within a short time period because I want it to disapate before spring so as not to kill the beneficials and wildlife. I personally don't want to add any more after the first month of bringing primarily for that reason. So if it does not take care of the problem or the insects reappear later I just live with it. Again my personal reason for using these products is not for the health of the plant but to try to keep from bringing all the bugs inside the house. Regarding plant health and safe use

Do you need to winter over Elephant Ears, Caladiums, and Canna Bulbs? This is what works for me.

Each bulb and variety should get a separate bag. Get some brown paper grocery bags and mark what you will be putting in the bag. Go to Lowes or HD with a large plastic garbage bag and ask them to empty their saw dust bin into the bag (the department that cuts boards). Now your ready.

After the first frost dig up bulbs discard dead foliage clean and let bulbs dry out. Place bulbs in bag with saw dust and store in a cool dark place such as a basement. Check bags periodically to make sure none are getting soft spots. If any are then remove it and discard the mushy bulb. Plant outside when ground temperatures are 60 degrees (your local extension office may have ground temperature information) and or plant bulbs in containers and move outside when temperatures are consistently 60 degrees at night.

No, I don't have the discipline to dig bulbs and replant at the right time. And haven't had any luck so far with Caladiums, although I drool over the ones you guys post.

I think I may have found an online source for those fertilome granules:
http://www.elawngarden.com/fer...

woofie,

Do your Lavatera come true from seed? I have pink perennial Lavatera of dubious ID, and I wonder if trading or giving away the seed would be misleading.

>> "Swan River daisy." ...
>> I need to track down it's "real" name

Maybe Brachyscome iberidifolia
(Asteraceae Family)

Rick, my Lavatera have come true from seed, although this year's plants are a bit small. Definitely look right, tho! Oh, and these are the annual Lavatera trimestris "Silver Cup." Don't seem to have as good a germination rate as the purchased ones, tho, for some reason. But then just about everything has been a bit substandard for me this year.

Thanks! I may package up my seeds as 'pink Lavatera - perennial hardy in Zone 8 - suspect ID'

Corey