You can read books.. or you can try things out. I find that you need some understanding (from genealogy) but in reality you need to also be willing to experiment. Here's what you need to know. What are your day and night temperatures in the late spring to early summer? This is when the spikes are triggered. If there is less than a 15-20 degree difference then you must have cymbs that are related to things like ensifolium. In addition what are the absolute high temps in late summer early fall? If they are in the 90s this limits the amount of non ensifolium material you can have.
Other warmies include canaliculatum, and a few more.
Kobsukh lists the following according to tolerance
Heat Factor
1Cym ensifolium subsp haematodes 10.0
2 Cym canalicaulatum 10.0
3 Cym aloifolium 10.0
4 Cym finlaysonianum 9.5
5 Cym ensifolium subsp ensifolium 8.5
6 Cym munronianum 8.0
7 Cym dayanum 8.5
8 Cym madidum 8.0
9 Cym bicolor 8.5
10 Cym atropurpureum 8.5
11 Cym chloranthum 7.0
12 Cym sinense 5.5
Many of these while warm tolerant are very small flowered short lived blooms and really only worth mentioning in that if they are the parents you may get some heat tolerance and a decent flower. For example I have some dayanum x cherry cola and the flower is nice and they are very warm tolerant.
I've had a lot of experience with pumilum sic floribundum) and discussions with Andy Easton about it. It seems there are at least two distinct 'races' of it, one that is much more warm tolerant than others. The ones that are not, initiate a bud, then sort of go dormant for about 3-5 months and then die off, never elongating or maturing. Also it seems that crosses make a big difference as to whether they are more warm tolerant. So what I say about it, is that pumilum is a very iffy warm tolerant, and only in some crosses. Mimi 'Sandalwood' was tolerant, some other Mimi's were not. Mimi 'Lucifer' is but Mimi 'Mary Bea' is not. I think you get the picture..so I didn't include it as warm though there are some crosses that are.