That's normal, Mark. Over time, the periphery of the cutting shrinks, leaving the center core (more dense) sort of sticking out.

Again, Mark, this is dormant-time. Of all the dozens and dozens of plants I have tried to root in the fall/winter months, only a few have ever done so. Keep in mind some cuttings root easily and some root very slowly. Thus, those easy-to-root ones would have the best chance of rooting now. I don't know what your cuttings are.

Uh, David................Go Dawgs! Great defense, huh? There was almost a drowning death in Columbia Thursday night. Me!

Ken could you keep football talk on the Sandbox forum please?

Sorry, Hetty. This was directed towards @David's post on November 4.

Hi Mark, nope..it is just sleeping right now..it will just further callus up that end, will not do anything right now. It just wants to sleep soundly. As I have said earlier...great patience..it will be a very, very long wait for Spring.

with Ken and Tarev, good thing is, it looks very healthy. Keep it dry Mark.

So for my edification, Mark should just store these til next Spring, misting every now and then if they appear to be dehydrating? And under lights is the way to go?

Lights are of no importance unless you have the expectation of rooting those plants. For years, not only my cuttings but the rooted plants were allowed to loose most of their leaves, then the remaining (large) ones removed, and all the plants went into large, contractor, black plastic bags. These bags were stored in a guest bedroom closet. No light, no water, no soil............nothing............ for the fall and winter months.

Yes, store till next Spring and keep in a warm area. With or without lights will work. what is important is to keep it warm and dry as it sleeps. It is really just a bunch of sticks right now..doing nothing. It is different if it still has leaves, and not showing any sign of sleeping. In that case, and your growing conditions is to its liking, it just might not fully sleep yet , but at the most in November to early Dec they may keep the leaves, but come Jan-Feb it will just throw out any of this existing leaves. It knows how to sleep when needed.

What about the plant I have that's 3 feet tall with a number of branches? If I keep that under artificial light with 60 degree plus temperatures should it flower inside during the winter. I don't recall if I've already asked but do these things flower in Hawaii all year?

I just brought mine in yesterday. A bit over 2 feet tall. No dropping, yellowing or anything of leaves. All young leaves still growing. But I do like Ken's old method. Strip the leaves. Throw in a garbage bag and store em in my closet.

I intend to do what I did last year. Put it in my basement grow area and let it do its thing.

Mark 'artificial light' needs to be a grow light if you intend for the plant to not go dormant. It needs a full spectrum.
They naturally go dormant everywhere but in some places the dormancy is very short. Here in southwest Florida I usually still have blooms until Christmas, and by the end of February they start to wake up again, although I don't usually have my first bloom until the very end of March.

Here is last year's bloom on Christmas Day

And here is a March bouquet.

The only thing I've managed to keep alive through winter without losing leaves is the Dwarf Pink Singapore but this time around, even them are ready to fall asleep, leaving just a few rusty leaves.

Mark, I don't grow anything under artificial light though I do use supplemental lighting in my two GHs. For the first time ever (I have grown plumeria for 25 years) I am going to keep six different varieties, all in bloom/bud now, in my new solarium and see what they do. I have built a temporary GH for the rest of my plumeria and half of it has light from a large window facing due west. Half the plants (and all the cuttings) will be in mostly shade and for those, I will keep them 100% dry. I may mist them occasionally, but that's all the water they'll see. For those that get that west light/sun, I am going to water them just enough to see if they maintain most of their leaves. I will keep this temporary GH heated so that it remains at or above 60F. It is experimentation time!

I have been so busy with going to our football game in MO and then moving in the rest of my orchids (plus the rotten cold/wet last two days), I haven't even had a chance to check on all my plumeria still outside. If any of them are in bud I will "sneak" them into the solarium. I think my wife loves those in bloom but I don't want to tell her there may be another one (or more) that needs to join those bloomers.

If possible to get them to bloom longer, or earlier, I'm willing to make the investment in the grow lights (I bought a 4 bulb T5 light) and electricity. I'm guessing "dormancy" in warmer climates doesn't mean the leaves fall off and start all over so maybe if I can just achieve them staying active during winter with the grow lights I get a jump on the summer season. I have noticed over the last month that my plant I've had for 10 years keeps "sprouting" new leaves inside under the lights and hasn't lost any leaves.

I'm thinking about ordering a number of rooted plants from Floridacolors. There are so many varieties to choose from however. If I'm looking for some pink/yellow and white/yellow are there some obvious ones to buy that fall into the category of good bloomer?

I'm jealous of you Florida people by the way. I wish I could landscape with these things.

You can't go wrong with Florida Colors.
For pink/yellow I strongly recommend 'Vienna Rose' - it is an excellent bloomer and somewhat compact grower.
For white/yellow you have a lot of choices. Celadine is an obvious one, again a compact grower and the one most used for leis in Hawaii. Jack's Yellow Compact is another good choice, as is Luc's Gold Cup.

@Gobble - Hey Mark .... do you have a lot of room inside? You said:

"I have noticed over the last month that my plant I've had for 10 years keeps "sprouting" new leaves inside under the lights and hasn't lost any leaves."

How big is that? How many branches? Is it constantly inside under lights? (If you answered these ?s above, sorry)

I just brought all the rest of my stuff in 2 days ago and even I admit it is rather intense. To say the least.

Regarding over wintering last year, I just bought my Plumeria August of last year. When delivered it was well rooted, in a small container and had 6 or so leaves. Within days it dropped all the leaves. I called the vendor and they indicated that was normal.

I over wintered it in my basement grow area under flourescents (natural light bulbs) and metal halide (2 warehouse fixtures).
Between that and some supplemental heat, it stays about 65 degrees there and I control the humidity at about 60 - 75 % with both humidifier & dehumidifier. I run the lights on a timer for 12 hours.

Over winter, I gave the plumeria a small amount of water every couple of weeks or so. I now know that is wrong. I should just slightly mist it occasionally.

But the plumeria did just fine and at Mothers Day it looked the same as it did in September. I then placed it outside in full sun (South side of house) and the leaves started forming in about 2 - 3 weeks. It is now about 2 feet tall, has 2 branches, ~20 leaves and is continuing to form new leaves. None are turning yellow. Note that in the past few weeks outside, it has been exposed to highs over 90 and lows in lower 40s.

I am in Zone 5 B NW Missouri.

David, go look back at post #9 or 10. This is the first season I have had it under lights. Normally I just put it in a dark place for the winter and let the leaves fall off.

So the ones you bought that initially dropped their leaves were left under lights all winter and didn't spring back to life again until summer? That makes me think the lights didn't really do anything.

Ken, your plumeria blooms are beautiful, they look big and healthy and your leaves are still full and green with no signs of rust. I think you are doing better than me. You should post photos of your plumeria blooms in the Plumeria 2015z

Mark, I think the lights during winter, if you will continue with it, will help keep the cuttings warm, but cannot expect a bloom or leafing on unrooted cuttings for the time being. Even in my area it takes late May to late June to see anything going on my Plumies. But then again, even if it may be warm to hot here already but our conditions goes very dry, so maybe the very low humidity we have hinders its wake up time, compared to areas like Florida that have better humidity levels. Plus there are varieties that really takes it sweet time to leaf.

And I think that is why rooting cuttings is best done around Spring time, where over all ambient conditions is getting warmer longer with the longer light duration. In late Fall to winter, getting cold and less light, and this plant really loves lots of sun and light, so it is just not enough. Best to let it naturally go to sleep. As I have suggested before, experiment with one or two with that artificial lighting and let the others naturally rest, so you have back-up. On the flipside of things, less things to do really in winter, for me I like that, it will just slumber along together with its friend Adenium.

Your cuttings may have latent buds, so it may wake up ahead in Spring. Something to look forward to later.