Well, got rid of the thrips and aphids, now I am seeing leaf streak. (sigh) Alway something it seems.

Is there an organic way to treat leaf streak?

Wondering about leaf streak as well. After a recent hard freeze,
the foliage began to show what looks like leaf streak on the outer
leaves, but maybe it is just freeze damage.

Hubby pulled off the affected leaves very early this morning. That was
my pleasant surprise when I got up. Yeah, he's a keeper.

Leaf streak is the one thing I totally dislike. We have researched it, but
haven't found any organic way to tame the beast, except to pull off the
affected leaves and remove leaf debris late winter before the daylilies begin to grow.
Some say to remove leaf debris in the fall, and we do when adding new mulch, but once the freezing temps begin, there will be plenty of dead leaves to remove no matter what.

I really hate to use fungicides, but may have to resort to that if leaf
streak is noted in a big way, and I'm not as yet certain that fungicides really
help all that much. Hope others have ideas.

Organic doesn't work as well as the other. I use Cleary 3336.

There was some testing of fungicides including bio-products for leaf streak, the fungicide Julie uses was one of the best ones but is not organic. There's a link to the study and also an article on leaf streak from the AHS daylily dictionary page for leaf streak, scroll to the bottom for the links:

http://www.daylilies.org/ahs_d...

Another problem that surfaces early in the year is spring sickness, which I've seen mistakenly called leaf streak, so just to differentiate here are some pictures of that (I know that's not what Becky has, but it might be of interest to others who aren't sure what they're seeing):

http://web.ncf.ca/ep568/galler...

Clearly, I need some Cleary 3336. Between rust and leaf streak my daylilies are lucky to have a leaf left.

I think mine is spring sickness after looking at more photos.
Mostly, the foliage looked nice until we had a few freezes.

It's about the right time for spring sickness, is there any forsythia flowering in your area right now? We tend to use that as a marker. The freezes didn't cause it, spring sickness starts before the shoots emerge, it just takes a while for the damage to grow out to where you can see it. Sometimes this seems to coincide with a freeze, just because of the time of year it happens, but spring sickness happens with or without freezes. Freezing of the leaves can let in the leaf streak fungus and result in yellow and brown leaves but that's not the same thing. For it to be spring sickness there'd be bending, possibly stunting, and brown ragged "saw-tooth" leaf edges.

Our winter was very wet here this year (thankfully, as our reservoirs need refilling). This is the first year that I have seen leaf streak on some (newer) plants, and I'm not happy about it. (Nope, no spraying here.)

Just as with badly rust susceptible plants, badly leaf streak susceptible plants mostly get the boot here.

Sue, the forsythia has been past bloom for some time. It blooms with the
daffodils. Then, we see flowering trees, and flowering shrubs are the next phase
of bloom which is about to peak. Iris is just beginning. However, that's very
interesting that forsythia is a marker for spring sickness. I've just learned
something new. The forsythia here is quite old though, not a hybrid, so that may have something to do with the timing.

I do see brown saw-toothed edges with the middle new growth flopping over
which is easy to pull out of the daylilies. Some twisting of the foliage as well. I do believe it is spring sickness. If the weather continues to warm, the plants tend to
grow out of the effects of spring sickness. That's what I've noticed in prior years for
this particular malady.

On some, the oldest leaves, the ones near the ground do look like leaf streak, but are
probably just dying leaves that have been subjected to freeze. If a fungus becomes
apparent, even though I detest using fungicides, I will do so.

I looked into some of the fungicides, and some of the labels read like scary stuff.
So, I think we will stick with Daconil which may work only as a preventive rather than a
cure, but it seems to be safer since the label states it can be used on edibles though
I wouldn't want to use it on edibles.

Thanks for the comments. I have to agree with Larry .... after pulling so many leaves due to rust and leaf streak, my poor plants look kinda sparse. But it does help keep them from becoming too crowded allowing more air flow between them. Whether they have enough energy stored to produce blooms this year is yet to be seen.

Seems overhead watering is part of the problem for both rust and leaf streak. I guess I need to consider soaker hoses throughout my daylily raised beds instead of micro-sprinklers OR do the watering in the middle of the day so the foliage dries quickly.

I checked out the Cleary 3336 and it is quite expensive. I don't know if I want to spend the money and add chemicals to my garden. I am not keen on doing that at all. This is such a dilemma for me.

Sue - Thanks for the links on leaf streak and Spring Sickness. I've had Spring Sickness too on a few daylilies, so I do know what that looks like as well.

All I can wonder is .... is there anything at all that I DO NOT get here that attacks my daylilies?

Sue also mentioned a link to leaf-streak resistant daylily cultivars on this post on another thread that I read:
https://etd.ohiolink.edu/!etd....

I do have Siloam Double Classic (on the list for both rust resistance and leaf streak resistance .... or at least that is how I understood it to be) and it does hold up well to a lot of ailments known to attack daylilies in my own garden. I think I need to get Buttered Popcorn, too, and a few others and use them in my breeding program. Maybe using some of these resistant cultivars with others would create some seedlings with nice foliage year round? My breeding ideas are getting narrower and more singularly focused. So complicated to get a nice daylily to grow here in the south without chemical treatments.

Buttered Popcorn shows rust pretty bad in my garden.

Hmmmm .... bummer. Well, then I should strike that one off my list. I have several that seem to show some pretty good-looking foliage:

Dips:

Siloam Double Classic
Jedi Brenda Spann
Beautiful Edgings
Lady Neva
Gleber's Top Cream
Fol de Rol
Purple Rain Dance
Paige's Pinata
Wild One

Tets:

Chinese Scholar
Mister Lucky
Whooperee

As well as some of my seedlings, which I am quite happy to see! Some of my newest acquired daylilies are too new to evaluate yet, but I will be watching them closely to see which ones might be showing rust and leaf streak resistance.

Those resistant will be my top breeders. Breed with each other and other cultivars to create children with healthy looking foliage!

Now this is not to say that these cultivars might not develop issues at a later date. But right now, they are looking pretty decent as far as rust and leaf streak are concerned. That is a dozen cultivars out of over 70. Of the others, many are indeed showing some resistance, but not as good as I had hoped. I am dreaming of rust resistant 1.0 cultivars and seedlings.

I am new to the forum seeking out information about an economical way to spray for rust. We live in Alabama, and the rainfall this year has caused an extensive amount of rust.

I read on an earlier post about the Cleary 3336 fungicide, and I have been researching this chemical as a potential option as well. I am hoping that someone would know what the mixing ratio needs to be in regards of ? ounces of chemical per ? gallons of water. Please help!

I have both leaf streak and rust in my gardens. The leaf streak is especially bad this year. I just pull or cut the leaves for now. Some plants are more affected than others, but I haven't made the plunge into spraying with a fungicide yet. There are others in this forum that are very knowledgeable on such matters but I am not one of them. Most of the knowledge that I a have about daylilies, I learned right here on this forum.

I pulled up the label on the web. If you are treating for rust by spraying the foliage, it says 12 to 16 fl. oz. per 100 gallons of water. So dividing by 100 that seems to be a very tiny bit per gal. Moving the decimal place over two spaces I get .12 to .16 fl. oz. per gal. I have never used this product, but I know Stan on here has, and I don't think he had a lot of success with it. I have not had much success with any chemical products I have used so far for the control of leaf streak or rust. I am really in need of a good solution to the problem.
http://www.domyownpestcontrol....

I pulled up the label on the web. If you are treating for rust by spraying the foliage, it says 12 to 16 fl. oz. per 100 gallons of water. So dividing by 100 that seems to be a very tiny bit per gal. Moving the decimal place over two spaces I get .12 to .16 fl. oz. per gal. I have never used this product, but I know Stan on here has, and I don't think he had a lot of success with it. I have not had much success with any chemical products I have used so far for the control of leaf streak or rust. I am really in need of a good solution to the problem.
Just received an email that says to use 1 teaspoon per gal. of Cleary 3336.
http://www.domyownpestcontrol....

Jim Murphy told me that it is very important WHEN you apply the Cleary 3336. You have to do the first application when the foliage is about 6" tall and the 2nd about 3 weeks later. The first year I waited until seeing the leaf streak and at that point the cat is out of the bag. Its too late to be very effective. This year ( although honestly I hate to spray) I was better about getting 2 sprayings early and it has done better. Jim and Margo have now moved to using organic methods. He used to be ( and maybe still is) a certified ( some title given to those who are experts on spraying chemicals - I forget ) Before Jim took his current position managing the grounds at UVA, he took care of some large estates around the Charlottesville ( VA) area.

However this year, I am REALLY noticing a problem with leaf miners and have reached a frustration point with that. Finally broke down and applied a systemic granular ( the same one I use for roses) which seems to be helping the new foliage to come in better, although the old foliage looks icky. I don't know if the systemic will keep the leaf miners from attacking but will be watching. Nothing else I'd tried had worked.