@ediblelandscapingsc Daniel-- I really never use chemicals, but I am not anti chemical. Could you please explain to me about gnatrol. Is it a systemic? How does it compare to Neem Oil, especially when using Neem systemically? Wouldn't Gnatrol kill anything that bites or feeds on the plant? Like aphids and spider mites and white flies? What about those low life bottom feeders--pill bugs which keep eating the good stuff! And do not even let me go the earwig route! Just looking for one product that would be the best to close the diner! Many blessings for a fantastic Friday!

@Altheabyanothername Gnatrol is a selective, biological larvicide for use in greenhouses to control fungus gnat larvae. It may be used on a wide variety of ornamentals, as well as all bulb crops, bedding plants and vegetable sets. Once the larvae have ingested Gnatrol, they become paralyzed, stop feeding immediately and die. Gnatrol WDG is listed by the Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) for use in organic production. Gnatrol is a larvicide that will not control adult flies and gnats. This product targets certain types of fly larvae including drain flies, black flies, fungus gnats, and mosquitoes. Gnatrol must be eaten by the susceptible insects. Once ingested, the Bacillus thuringiensis bacteria "BT" act by producing proteins that react with the gut lining of susceptible insects. It is most effective when applications are timed when larvae are present. Repeated applications may be needed for the next generation of larvae.

Sorry to say it will not control pill bugs, only the expensive and only half decent sluggo plus will work on them "somewhat". I too am at a constant battle with them. they say they love water so reducing waterings help but as we all know our plants need water so it's a catch 22. One thing that has helped a little besides sluggo plus is pulling the mulch away from the plants. I can't tell you how bad my irises look because of these things. I thought it was the heat doing the damage but after removing some damaged leaves I seen them eating them at the base. Many master gardeners and so called experts refuse to believe these things eat live plants but I have seen it too many times on too many different plants so I know they will. they often say things like another bug damaged the plants and the pill bugs are there to handle the decaying plant matter and are often falsely accused of damaging plants but this is just a bunch of bull by people with there faces in books and no boots in the garden. They also say they are only at the base of plants but that's not true either they will climb over 7 ft to get a ripe fig in my trees. I read about your peroxide experiment that you did and since diluted HH20 is naturally accruing in rain I doubt it will kill them especially if diluted but they may try to get away from it for sure. DE is said to work but hasn't worked for me on them but it's good on a few other bugs. They say frogs and lizard eat them but I've never seen a frog or lizard eat them but instead walk or hop right past them. some say lay orange peels out at night and knock the bugs that are attached to the peel in a bucket the next morning but when you have a population of a billion rolly pollies like I do that just a drop in the bucket literally and a wast of energy. Armadillidiidae are the biggest downside of not using chemical fertilizers and trying to amend your soil with organic material. the more organic material in the soil the higher the population. If your soil was unamended and sandy without mulch you wouldn't have the problem you have with them but your plants would be more dependent of frequent waterings and fertilizer applications.

So true on everything you said. My iris eaters are pill bugs, do not have iris borers. No bug was harmed /died when I poured hydrogen peroxide on. But they left the crown and root ball willingly. Does this sound like it would work? Take old bananas mash them with sevin dust, set it out for those crusty's to eat. They do not die right away but will eventually. If they are eaten that one gets poisoned too. Many blessings for a safe and wonderful weekend!

yeah it may but what if an animal eats it or butterflies that would be my only issue. I thought about placing something under a board that was poisoned but then earth worms may consume some, again it's a catch 22.

ediblelandscapingsc said:
Sorry to say it will not control pill bugs, only the expensive and only half decent sluggo plus will work on them "somewhat". I too am at a constant battle with them. they say they love water so reducing waterings help but as we all know our plants need water so it's a catch 22. One thing that has helped a little besides sluggo plus is pulling the mulch away from the plants. I can't tell you how bad my irises look because of these things. I thought it was the heat doing the damage but after removing some damaged leaves I seen them eating them at the base.

'Sluggo Slug & Snail Bait' isn't labeled for control of sow bugs/pillbugs. (I checked my container). In fact , I couldn't find any reference at all to sow/pillbugsl on Sluggo's website, nor any of the other websites I checked that provide label information about 'Sluggo Slug & Snail Bait'. The active ingredient is it is iron phosphate combined with EDTA. Out of curiosity, I did a search for what is recommended for the control of sow bugs/pillbugs. Sevin, Dursban, diazinon, permethrin or any carbaryl-based insecticides are suggested for sow bugs/pillbugs. They have never seemed to harm my daylilies or my vegetable plants so I don't worry about them being around.

I've never had fungus gnats. I was taught a long, long time ago to consider all potting medium as being contaminated with fungus gnat eggs. (Some of the best advice I have ever received.) All of my potting medium is subjected to boiling water to moisten it. I have a large (I do mean large) pot that I fill about half full with my potting soil and add boiling water to wet it. I have a wooden paddle that I use to stir until the soil is evenly moist. When it cools off, I fill my containers and plant my seeds. Before using the boiling water method, I tried baking it in the oven and nuking it in the microwave. (In small batches at a time, of course.) Both methods worked but oh, the smell!

Care must always be taken when using boiling water. Always! But, as I said I have never, ever had fungus gnats. Kill the eggs, no fungus gnats.

Altheabyanothername said:@ediblelandscapingsc Daniel-- I really never use chemicals, but I am not anti chemical. Could you please explain to me about gnatrol. Is it a systemic? How does it compare to Neem Oil, especially when using Neem systemically? Wouldn't Gnatrol kill anything that bites or feeds on the plant? Like aphids and spider mites and white flies? What about those low life bottom feeders--pill bugs which keep eating the good stuff! And do not even let me go the earwig route! Just looking for one product that would be the best to close the diner! Many blessings for a fantastic Friday!

Since leaf miner larva feed inside daylily leaves (feeding causes the tracks) I doubt that Gnatrol would have any effect. Gnatrol is used as a soil drench which targets fly species whose larva live and feed in the soil. That's why Gnatrol is effective against fungus gnat larva.

sluggo plus not sluggo

it's more expensive then plain old sluggo but works somewhat and I'm not sure why my leaf miners have stopped but all I did was apply Gnatrol to them. I didn't mix it with water just sprinkled it around the base of the plant.

Sluggo Plus label

It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner
inconsistent with its labeling.
QUICK FACTS:
• Kills Insects, Snails and Slugs
• For Use Around Vegetables, Fruit Trees, Citrus, Berries,
Ornamentals, Shrubs, Flowers, Trees, Lawns, Gardens and in
Greenhouses (non-commercial)
• 1 Lb. Treats 2,000 Sq. Ft.
• Lasts Up To 4 Weeks
PESTS CONTROLLED: Earwigs, cutworms, sowbugs, pillbugs,
crickets, slugs, snails.
APPLICATION DIRECTIONS:
Scatter the bait granules on the soil around or near the plants to be
protected with a suitable hand or power operated spreader (gravity or
rotary) to ensure uniform coverage over the treatment area. Apply bait
evenly at approximately 0.5 to 1 lb. per 1,000 square feet, or for
smaller areas, 0.075 to 0.15 oz., or 0.5 to 1 teaspoon, per square yard.
Do not place in piles. Scatter the bait around the perimeter of the area
to provide a protective “barrier” for pests entering the area. If the
ground is dry, wet it before applying bait. The product works best when
soil is moist but with little or no standing water. Do not use food
utensils such as tablespoons, cups, etc. for food purposes after
pesticide use.
Do not apply more than 3 times in any 30 day period. Apply at the
higher rate if the infestation is severe. Re-apply after heavy rain or
watering. Do not apply within 3 days of harvest.
For seedlings, spread the bait around the base of the stem. For trees
or shrubs, spread the bait around the base of the tree. For small plots,
treat around the base of the plants to be protected. In greenhouses,
scatter the bait in the pots of plants being damaged or around pots on
greenhouse benches.
Evening is the best time to apply the bait as pests travel and feed
mostly by night or early morning. Treat all likely areas of infestation,
especially around the perimeter of garden plots for target pests
because pests travel into plant areas from daytime refuges. Slugs &
snails favor damp places around vegetable plants such as beans,
tomatoes, lettuce, cabbage, celery and squash. Other favorite areas
are flower gardens, rockeries, hedges, dichondra, lawns, ivy patches,
and other ground cover where they obtain shelter by day.

Thank you Daniel! I do not have any worms, lots of moles. Either no food or it is too hot, tunneling is going nuts. Coming up and surfacing right next to stems on ornamentals and roses. I would cover so butterflies would not land on it.

Thank you Judy! I will wait till winter. Hopefully the lizards will be hibernating. I think a chemical treatment will have to be done.

I have some other issues to clear up. I replaced the lawn with broken concrete. In town a man broke up his two car driveway into pieces. So I recycled it and brought it all home. It took me two weeks. I have done other broken concrete projects. It is raised and last summer I was going to lift it all up again to fill with dirt. I had several family emergencies and did not do it. Then I noticed my yard was not being torn apart. I have 3 pecan trees. The squirrels are scared to walk on it because it's not filled in. But this is where all my friends live! I know I need to level and fill it. Squirrels or doodles I can't win. May you both be blessed with comfort and security!

"Sluggo Plus"