RpR
So you dig a trench 2 or 3 feet long and 2 feet deep, bend/ stretch the root while laying the plant down into the trench. Then cover the 2 foot wide plant with dirt. Is that about right?

Tisha said:RpR
So you dig a trench 2 or 3 feet long and 2 feet deep, bend/ stretch the root while laying the plant down into the trench. Then cover the 2 foot wide plant with dirt. Is that about right?

The trench has to be longer and wider than the rose . Width will be more important than length and you will probably be best to compress the branches rather than get overly wide as in spring if you forget to uncover a branch there is a fifty-fifty chance to break it off.
Two feet deep give or take should be enough to cover the plant.
If your rose is a foot wide, sixteen inches will do; if you rose is a stiff sucker that looks like a small tree, a lttle deeper is better.
It almost seems, to me, that if you bury it x deep, when you lift it up it is x plus five more inches , so when you lift it make sure you get under it, and depending on your soil type, rock the fork or shovel or what ever you use, The ground will raise or move where the rose is. Now if it does not lift easily use multiple spots to find out where it is and is not.
If you have softer soil this will not be too much of a problem.

Now I also put leaves on top of mine so I do not worry about any exposed tips.

You make sure the dirt is not blocking the side of the root ball in the direction the bush will be tipped and loosen the rear half of he roots, dig under them and lift, rock the tool, a little to make sure you can see the rose lift a little, then push it over into the trench.
I do not wear gloves so some times I use a stick or what ever is handy to push on real pricky roses.
I step on it if necessary when I start to cover it or put a large chunk of dirt, or any thing to hold it down if need be.
Make sure the root is covered with dirt and MARK, by what ever means you choose where the end of the rose is, the root, the direction you tipped it.
I tip som roses into the same hole, one from each direction, or three into a common, commons etc. as space provides.
When I started doing this I did not mark anything, and when I uncovered them all I saw was a blank black slate that gave zero indication where any rose was.
It took me a few years of annoyance to finally mark it well enough.
I found leaving bits of string or twine to mark was a joke as it seems worms like to hide them from you.

You will get the hang of it and it does get easier each year.

If I didn`t need to plant the roses in the 10gal. tubs that are sunk into the ground transplanting and winterizing would be do-able. As the situation is I`m still not sure it`s possible. How much winterizing do I really need for zone 5?

Not nearly as much as zone 3 folks do!!
Toledo has a great local Rose society. They have several rosarians who can give you specific answers for your zone so you don't go to extra work.
Their website lists the contact info of the rosarians.
http://toledorosesociety.org/c...
Don't be afraid to contact them, because one of their main goals is to educate gardeners about growing roses! Then come back here and let us know what they said!
My mother grows roses in your zone, but I think her zone 5 in Kansas City is different from zone 5 in Toledo. I don't want to mislead you in case her unmulched, unprotected roses are an exception.

with Cindi. I have a hunch that you do not need to do what they call the "Minnasota Tip" method of winter protection in your zone 5 garden. It's simply extra work for you and will not be necessary to protect your roses.

As Cindi has suggested, it is wise to get advice from gardeners who actually grow roses in a climate similar to yours. Getting advice from those of us who are problem solving long distance doesn't really give you targeted information.

Good luck with your roses.

I`ll check the TRS.
I have another problem now.
Are there any articles on this site dealing with ways to totally get rid of wild multiflora ,root and all?

Tisha:

I have what I call bush roses, in a different garden, that I do not have to do much with beyond trim to keep them from getting too big but it took years of paying some attention to them before I could just let them go.
Some winters by spring time they were just a few branches surviving.
They are also on the side of a building that even in winter gets sunshine as long as it is up.
Now they are large/er and I am pretty sure even the smallest is over the hump so beyond treating for black spot no extra effort will be done, although they do get buried under snow from the driveway.

As you are moving your roses this year that is when they are more finicky than they will be after getting reestablished.
As Roseblush said, your area should not need the care mine does normally.
If you had hybrid Tea, those would need extra care till they are re-established; I treat all my roses except the different local bush roses as if they were HT roses.

My austin roses did not get the full attention paid to them, and I could not have done much more than I did, due to location, and they slowly died.
If they had lasted a few more years, maybe they would be as tough as the other bush roses but they went one by one till gone.
It is the first few years that kills most roses; I had potted roses from various catalogs, that before I started burying them, did not make it past the first year,
I switched to strictly bare root roses but Sharon bought two potted roses this year I put in, so I will see how well they do this first winter.

Wild rose.
Poison Ivy/brush killer should do it. I use it on grape vines but be carefull.

Tisha I feel your pain. I kill off multiflora with poison ivy brush killer, and they come back year after year. The main problem is the birds love the seeds so much and they spread them for you, and this rose grows easily from seed.
Learn what the young plants look like and keep an eye out for them in the spring, kill them while they are young. Sorry!