I have grown michanense seeds in the traditional (simplest) manner on two separate occasions. They performed normally, although with this method, it is hard to give any growth specifics.
This winter I went back to using the baggies for my hypogeal germinating lily seeds. Compared to other species, L. michiganense and L. superbum needed more moisture in the medium than others, especially the ones native to the Caucasus (L. monadelphum,L. szovitsianum of which I have four accessions).
Out of three viable michiganense seeds, only one has actually germinated so far. It has produced a tiny bulb inside the original seed sheath! This is what makes the baggie method so fun: I can actually seed the hypgeal stem that terminates with the bulb, even as it grows inside the seed.
Years ago I did germate L. kelloggii, with the bag method, according to recommended procedures. See Darm's articles. While it was fun to see the bulb growth and leaf emergence at approximately 50F within the bag, transplanting the delicate things proved fatal to most, and the others didn't last much longer. I hoped the bulb was just dormant, but these western species tend to be very finicky (excluding L. pardalinum) in our eastern climates. Of them, L. columbianum is reported the easiest to grow as mature plants. Still, I couldn't get even that species past the 1 year stage from seed. If I ever try these again, I will plant seed directly in to a pot of soil.
Regarding freezing seed, you may want to look at this:
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Anthony, regarding the gloriosoides seed you sent me (for which I am forever grateful), there looked to be two or three viable seed. Three have plumped, one of which has just begun germinating after moving them to 60-65F. At 68-70F, they plumped just fine, but seemed to do nothing more. When I germinated L. speciosum var. rubrum years before, I experience the same results - germination not at 68-70F, but growth at 60-65F.
