Viewing post #122297 by Leftwood

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Jun 12, 2011 9:13 PM CST
Name: Rick R.
Minneapolis,MN, USA z4b,Dfb/a
Garden Photography The WITWIT Badge Seed Starter Wild Plant Hunter Region: Minnesota Hybridizer
Garden Sages I was one of the first 300 contributors to the plant database! Plant Identifier Million Pollinator Garden Challenge
Re: rabbits, my advice: just put up a short rabbit fence and be done with it. Two feet high is very adequate.

Jo Ann, Virginia creeper has five leaflets, not three, if it helps with the identification. Virginia creeper (usually sold as Engleman Ivy) is much larger and coarser than strawberries, and also has tendrils.

As for edible "weeds", there's a Norwegian guy on the North American Rock Garden Society (NARGS) forum that is in to everything edible. His avatar is a a large and very enticing plate of mixed wild salad greens. A discussion veered off on a chickweed tangent and he posted a pic of his chickweed harvest:
http://nargs.org/smf/index.php...

Back to the real discussion at hand...

pardalinum said:Most of the feeding occurs via the stem roots that grow on the stem between the soil surface and the top of the bulb.


This is true for nearly all lilies, and certainly all the ones most people grow (Asiatics, orientals, trumpets, and their crosses). However there are a few exceptions, as some lilies do not grow roots above the bulb. These are all the species in the martagon section (Ll. martagon, tsingtauense, medeoloides, distichum, hansonii), a good portion of the American species, and a few very obscure Asian lily species. Except for the martagons, L. michiganense, L. canadense and L. superbum, you hardly need to take note.

Putting in the rest of my two cents, I usually yank the yankable dead or dying lily stalks in the fall. It does leave the area unmarked, so you have to tread gently in the spring, not knowing exactly where they might emerge, but it does remove most of the "pesky" stem bulblets. There is an art to stem yanking, much like rhubarb. Place your feet near the stem to prevent the bulb from pulling out of the ground (but not too near since you want to pull the stem bulblets too), firmly grasp the stem, lean forward and give a quick tug. If the stem doesn't break below the ground, then leave it be. Further wrangling would be doing more damage to the bulb's basal roots. Then you can cut them as Pard suggests.

Not that you should pull the stems in fall, it's just what I do. There are pros and cons for both methods.
When the debate is lost, slander becomes the tool of the losers. - Socrates

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