Viewing post #1277095 by CaliFlowers

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Sep 19, 2016 8:45 PM CST
Name: Ken
East S.F. Bay Area (Zone 9a)
Region: California
Sabrina,

It's been my experience that when mold shows on the outside of a seed it's because the inside has already decomposed, but you might be able to save a few.

I totally understand the desire to fall-sow some daylily seed, and I do a couple of flats every year, but when I do, it's the earliest pods I've harvested, and I always refrigerate the seeds (damp) for at least 3 weeks before sowing.

I put the individual crosses in small manila coin envelopes (60mm x 110mm), grouped in plastic "ZipLoc" baggies. Then when it's time to dampen them, all I have to do is add about 10 mm of water to each baggie, let them soak for about 5 minutes until the bottoms of the manila envelopes are wet, drain away the excess, and put the baggies back in the refrigerator. If you always maintain the baggies in an upright position, the seeds that sprout early will grow straight shoots and roots, and be easier to plant.

Stratification doesn't hurt the evergreens, and it's very important for the semi-evs and dormants, so I do them all. It's not unusual to see a couple of dormant seedlings in evergreen crosses, and vice-versa. Some will sprout without this stratification, some may never sprout, and others may take so long that they will fall victim to fungus first. If stratified, they sprout rapidly and more uniformly.

I limit my indoor fall-sowing, mostly because of the power, space and upkeep required. I refrigerate the bulk of my seed dry until around January, moisten and refrigerate for 3-6 (or more) weeks, then sow them in pots outside as they start to sprout.

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