Viewing post #1460646 by RickCorey

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May 31, 2017 4:21 PM CST
Name: Rick Corey
Everett WA 98204 (Zone 8a)
Sunset Zone 5. Koppen Csb. Eco 2f
Frugal Gardener Garden Procrastinator I helped beta test the first seed swap Plant and/or Seed Trader Seed Starter Region: Pacific Northwest
Photo Contest Winner: 2014 Avid Green Pages Reviewer Garden Ideas: Master Level Garden Sages I was one of the first 300 contributors to the plant database! I helped plan and beta test the plant database.
>> lots of people suggested organic fertilizing and rockdust ( which is not available ) so im experimenting with lime stone instead to see what happens. nothing died so far so im guessing its working. They also suggested Microrysae which is not available here too but could be grown i believe .

If organic fertilizing means adding lots of compost, yes, that's your first priority for improving the soil/sand.

Limestone will give you very few mineral micro-nutrients the way rock dust would. Limestone raises the pH which is OK if you have acid soil, but bad news if your soil is already basic (alkaline).

If you have plenty of manure or compost, you will probably have enough mineral micro-nutrients released from the compost breaking down. If soil is sandy, hence well-aerated, and also warm, compost in soil will break down very fast and it's minerals will be released quickly ... but then you need to keep top-dressing with more and more compost.

If your soil is very sandy and you water a lot (which is necessary in dry heat, you might be washing micro-nutrients and all other nutrients right out of the root zone and down deep into the sand. Adding lots of compost, peat or coir are the only ways I know to fight that tendency.

BTW, I wondered how you "harden off" your seedlings. Some people in the North think that's just to get them used to being colder at night. Unnh-unnh! They are also adapting to drying winds and burning sun, even in the wet, cloudy, cool Pacific NorthWet. Maybe you should take 2-3 times as long to gradually harden your seedlings to withstand the hottest and driest conditions I ever want to think about! Start them in full shade and sheltered from all wind, and maybe bring them back indoors for the hottest part of the afternoon at first.

>> Everywhere i read says, start your seeds before last frost indoors then transplant after the last frost, the problem is we dont have a frost here, just extreme heat !

That's why I was thinking "people in Texas know about his growing conditions". They know that their tomatoes are going to dry up and die as soon as the summer fully arrives. So they have one short "spring" tomato season and one short "fall" tomato season.

Once the number of replies per day here drops off, you could move the thread to the Texas forum and see what they have to add from their experience. You could use the button at the bottom of this thead, "Suggest a change". Suggest moving the whole thread to the Texas forum.

Here's an advantage to "moving" the thread instead of starting a second thread in the Texas forum. Everyone who is contributing to or "watching" this thread will automatically STILL be watching it in the Texas forum, and may not even notice the shift (if they usually navigate to their Watched Threads using the Home Page "thread watcher".

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