Djsyke said:Is anyone out there willing to discuss what they do to get great tomatoes?
I have used just potting mix with some composted manure and did not get good results. The plants and the fruit seemed under nourished. I really don't care how I do it.....I just want a lot of awesome tomatoes. I will plant 10 plants and am willing to try different methods......but I would like to have help...if anyone is willing.
Thank you.
"Awesome tomatoes"...that's the goal!
I'm not expert, but here's my take on things...
Why try re-inventing the wheel? I would try using a good potting soil. I've had issues with Miracle-Gro products, specifically some of their potting soils. I have no idea what you may have available "near New York City". Most big-box-stores (BBS) like Walmart and the big hardware stores like HD or Lowes mostly carry Miracle-Gro products. If you could find a good nursery, a farmers "co-op" business, a real "feed and seed" store, etc., you'll probably have more options. Ask the folks there what they recommend. My personal opinion would be to go with potting "soils" and not "soiless" mixtures. A true potting soil will have some natural nutrients in it and some will have added nutrients...but the potting "soil" will have organics they the plants can utilize, too. Soil-less mixtures...not so much.
Pro-Mix makes a very good Vegetable & Herb potting soil. I love it for starting my seedlings. It comes from a Canada and is difficult to find down my way (south Alabama). Up your way it should be more easily found. That is the only Pro-Mix mixture that I recommend...the others are mostly soil-less except for one that I've see that is stated as being a "moisture control" type...it stayed to moist for my liking. Baccto makes a good potting soil, too. Others can be found. I would be *asking* at the previous mentioned types of businesses which potting soil they would use...and if you can look at the actual stuff inside the bag.
Some soils claim their "glory" is from "recycling"...that can be good or bad. Some recycled potting soils that I've seen appear to be more of a woody mulch than they are potting soil. Seeing bits of woody material in the potting soil is ok and it helps keep the soil from packing down too much...but I don't want to see an overabundance of it.
Tomato plants without sufficient calcium will be subject to bloom-end-rot (BER). Adding a handful of garden lime to the 5-gallons of mix should help prevent that problem. The soil may be fine as it is but I don't think a handful of lime would hurt.
Even with "includes blah-blah-blah fertilizer" potting soils I still like to mix in some type of fertilizer. Tomato-tone works well, for an all-around fertilizer. Throw a handful/cup in 5-gallons of potting soil and mix well. Growing in a container will wash much of the fertilizer through it but it will be there for the initial burst of feeding. Once the plant gets growing and you need to feed it (blooms forming, fruit forming) lots of people use
"Scotts Bloom Booster". It is an easy to use fertilizer that works well.
Another factor is...what types of tomatoes are you wanting to grow. Lots of people grow open-pollinated plants. They supposedly have better taste than hybrids. I have trouble growing OP plants down here due to disease issues in our hot and humid climate. OP plants don't deal well with disease. I wouldn't think you will have the problem that I do with disease where you're located. Many northern growers don't have bad problems with disease like we do. Hybrids will give you some protection against different diseases, though. They also have what is commonly called "hybrid vigor"...the characteristic of growing stronger, faster, and being more productive than their OP cousins. And, there are some very good tasting hybrids.
Another factor to consider is whether you want to grow determinate or indeterminate plants. Determinate plants are mostly a "one crop" harvest...the entire crop gets ready more-or-less at one time, you pick them all, and then the plant is mostly done producing. The Indeterminate will produce tomatoes all season long. Indeterminate plants are usually larger, too, so need more support than the smaller determinates. I mostly plant indeterminates (I garden in the ground) because I don't one a sudden harvest of many tomatoes....I want to spread them throughout the season.
Anyhow, that' my long-winded thoughts for now. Maybe some in there will be useful for you!
Best wishes on your 'mater growing this year!!!!
Ed
