BTW, I do appreciate you "calling" me back, as I probably wouldn't otherwise return to this thread until tomorrow.
>>> I am thinking that after I remove one of the "three hefty top branches", I should prune the remaining branches back hard so that I don't create that "mop head" you mentioned in your post above.
Yes. These are the ones I was talking about when I said "You will probably want to cut them back, even as much as half their length." I would also add that when you cut them back, leave the upright-most one taller. This will encourage the plant use it as the dominant stem, with the shorter one being subordinate, and create a more pleasing branch structure.
>>> Last spring, the point where they branched out was about the middle of the plant. What do you call that ? ... the point where the nurseryman took out the leader ?
There probably is a special name for it, but I don't know it. Before these top branches actually grew, when they were still just buds at the top of a single stem, they (all together) would be called the "apical bud cluster". The fourth, littler branch originates just below the three hefty ones, and would not have been part of the apical bud cluster.
First choose your upright most branch, and cut off around a third to a half. Cut down to just above a bud or branch that will look best to be a leader (a more upright branch or inward facing bud). Even though a true leader is not your aim, this will be the most aesthetically pleasing. For instance, and I stress this is only an example of what you
might do, cut here:
Choose one of the three hefty branches to remove completely, and remove it.
The other branch you will want to cut 6 inches or more lower that the upright most branch that you have pruned, and rather than choosing to cut above an upright bud or branch, you will cut just above an
outfacing (away from the center of the plant) bud or branch. For instance, this:
As you say, it will probably be best to wait until sometime after next spring's bloom to do any more major prune cuts, but you can do a few more nips here or there if you want.
It is likely that your pruning at the top will encourage a more dense growth (multiple branchlets) at the top. If this starts to shade the lower parts too much, you will want to thin them again. (Remember, no mophead.
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>>> It looks like Joe also removed the nodes for branches at the base of the plant on the right side of the photo. This is just a guess, but I think that means that there will never be new growth on that side of the plant at the base. Am I correct ?
No and yes. You cannot remove nodes unless you actually strip the wood below the bark. That would be bad, and he didn't do that. But it is just the nature of the tree that it probably won't produce any new growth from the main stem in that open area to the right. There isn't anything you can do to encourage new growth there, except make sure that it gets light, which it does. Just allow the nearby branches to fill in that area.
>>> I think just working on the top growth and possibly removing the one branch that touches the ground would equal the 1/4th plant reduction that you recommended, so any other pruning/shaping would have to be done the following year. Again, I am uncertain about that assumption, too, or should I still plan on cutting the lower branches back by half this year ?
Your major pruning is now done. Just little nips here or there as you may see fit. It's likely that you won't be cutting any of the lower branches back by as much as half. The aim is to have good light reaching all branches of the plant for good flowering, growth and form. This means that the lower part will always be wider than the upper part.
