For new plantings, after I have broken up a section of the clay, bags of Hapi-Gro Landscaper's Mix from Lowes are mixed in. At $3.50 per bag, it is fairly economical to use and is made up of bark fines, peat moss and perlite, and will work as a mulch, too. Most people will say not to mulch Iris due to the hazards of rot, but since it breaks down more quickly than the usual mulch, I don't think it would be a hindrance to lay it on for the first year, anyway. Using it as mulch will help the soil, as well. I mulch EVERYTHING going in the ground because we rarely ever have enough rain for soggy soil rot to be a problem, but your area might be different. Adding to that process, sometimes, I dig in the leaves that fall from my big ol' Cedar Elm in late season (and blow in from all the neighbors' trees); sometimes I let them lay around and decompose by themselves. My property has a slight slope side-to-side which helps with drainage, but previous owners tried to make a flat area out of most of the front yard. When I plant on there, I try to mound the soil up enough to slightly raise the Iris above the main soil level, again to make sure they don't sit in water. You also might check with your county extension agent for more information on planting in clay. Let us know how you get on with this project!« Return to the thread "Seeking Bernice Miller Iris Introductions"
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