It's a fun article! I, too, am usually very disappointed in store-bought tomatoes. I have sometimes had campari tomatoes from Costco that I enjoyed in salads.
So far I've spent an unmentionable amount of money on soil amendments, seeds, seed-starting equipment, and beautiful stone raised beds. If all my tomato plants were to produce this year, I don't think I could bring the average price down to that of the much-storied $64 tomato. I'm still waiting to produce my first home-grown tomato here in Prescott.
In that light I wonder whether, perhaps, there is a kind of efficiency to the mega-greenhouses that we might grudgingly admire.