Viewing post #831712 by RickCorey

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Apr 17, 2015 4:43 PM CST
Name: Rick Corey
Everett WA 98204 (Zone 8a)
Sunset Zone 5. Koppen Csb. Eco 2f
Frugal Gardener Garden Procrastinator I helped beta test the first seed swap Plant and/or Seed Trader Seed Starter Region: Pacific Northwest
Photo Contest Winner: 2014 Avid Green Pages Reviewer Garden Ideas: Master Level Garden Sages I was one of the first 300 contributors to the plant database! I helped plan and beta test the plant database.
My policy on amending heavy clay is to always "work it in" for the first few years, to establish deep aeration as soon as possible. Grit, sand, compost and fine bark get turned under as much as 18" deep, but at least 12", for the first few years.

Many smarter people are patient enough to just sheet compost on top of the soil, or add lots of top-dress mulch that breaks down quickly, and wait a few years for worms and frosts and decomposition and "perking" to drag the organic matter down to where it is needed most. I'm not patient.

Even just adding mulch every year will EVENTUALLY soften the underlying clay as it slowly decomposes and drips organic matter and "humic acids" down through the clay. Or so they tell me.

>> I have Pennisetum growing in that one bed, that's why I'm aking.

I'm sorry, I know nothing about that. Hopefully someone will chime in. I don't know what forum would specialize in grasses!

"Fountain Grass"?
"Pearl Millet"?

P.S. I experimented with using Daikon radishes to penetrate and break up clay soil. I think I sowed at the wrong time of year, into amended soil, and they made almost no roots, just lots of pods and seeds.

Some of those scattered onto totally unimproved clay, and seemed to like it better there. A few volunteered the next year. But either they could NOT push all the way down into the clay, or these were trying to escape!


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