White Butterfly Ginger (Hedychium coronarium)
Obtained two of these in mid August of 2015, from Ken Ramsey (DrDawg). Nice big, healthy rhizomes; hopefully I won't kill them right away! These will have to be overwintered in the sunroom, and I'll more than likely leave them in the greenhouse during summers. Planted the rhizomes in 2 big pots (although I'm not sure the pots are large enough; I'll see how they do and maybe move them into larger pots in the spring).
4/29/16: The butterfly ginger are growing and are actually starting to look better; they really seem to need a lot of water, which, even though I have read comments to that effect, I have had quite a difficult time achieving (I am much more likely to underwater everything than to water too much). This resulted in browning of quite a few of the older leaves and a generally rather ratty appearance; however, in the last couple of months I've been more diligent about watering and am definitely seeing improvement! I have the pots right in front of the glass door, which faces south but is under the roof overhang, so I don't think too much sun has been a problem (especially during our winter months). Will probably need to put them on the floor of the GH so they have some shade.
10/14/16: The butterfly ginger plants have been out on the little deck off the sunroom for the summer; again, I'm afraid they haven't had enough water during this time, the rain doesn't hit them there and they are somewhat 'out of sight, out of mind.' I think I will let them go dormant for the winter (out in the garage), then bring the pots inside in early spring and plant them in the ground outside for the summer, to see how they will do.
Found this information on the website http://www.usna.usda.gov/Garde... :
"If you live north of Zone 7 and don’t want to chance leaving any of these plants outside, you can overwinter them in your house. After the first frost, but before the first freeze, plants in the ginger family can be dug up. Once they have been removed from the ground, cut off the foliage, pot up the root balls, and store them in a cool, dry area of your home. Watering is not necessary during the winter months as the plants will be in a dormant state. In the spring, when the plants start to grow again, you can move them to a warmer location in your house. Wait until the nights are consistently above 55° F before planting them back in your garden."
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Growing Calibrachoa from seed:
CULTURE: Sow Jan. 15th - Feb. 15th - single seed pellets in light or darkness - do not cover and keep media very moist. Germinate @ 73°F/22.5°C for 7 days. Crop time for 4-6 in/10-15 cm pots and single plants is 12-13 weeks; 10 in/25 cm baskets @ 3 plants per basket 14-15 weeks; 12 in/30 cm 5 plant baskets 14-15 weeks. NOTE: Plug culture is very similar to petunias, however Calibrachoas tend to stretch easily so a “soft pinch” leaving 4 basal nodes can be beneficial for small pot production. Don’t pinch drastically or it could delay flowering. For the use of PGRs to promote stacked internodes that reduce long internodes (stretching) and more dense, bulky transplants with Paclobutrazol. Pellets only.
Obtained seeds of 'Kabloom' from Harris Seeds in December 2015, 25 each of blue and pink.
Started seeds 3/1/16, under the fluorescent lights. Did not get very good germination, especially of the blue ones; but will have some plants to try.
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Madagascar Vinca (Catharanthus roseus) from seed:
From pthorticulture.com :
"Vinca (Catharanthus roseus) is an annual bedding plant which originated from Madagascar. It is a tough plant to grow because it requires higher air (up to 85˚F) and substrate (not less than 70˚F) temperatures than other plants, a low fertility, high porosity substrate, high relative humidity and high light. Gardeners choose Vinca because it is relatively drought-tolerant and performs well in dry and hot locations exposed to full sun. Another important benefit of this plant is that it flowers during the entire summer. Vinca flowers come in a wide variety of colors such as red, dark red, white, pink, light pink, and purple."
"Stage 1. Seeds have to be sown in a disease-free and fully saturated substrate; the seeds must be under dark conditions (i.e., covered with vermiculite) in order to germinate. Substrate pH should be between 5.5 and 5.8, EC from 0.5 to 0.75 dS/m, substrate temperature at 77˚F (±1˚F), and 100% relative humidity. This stage lasts up to 7 days and it ends when the radicles emerge.
Stage 2. This stage is characterized by stem and cotyledon emergence. Substrate pH should still be between 5.5 and 5.8, EC around 1 dS/m, and substrate temperature reduced to 76.5˚F (±1.5˚F). The substrate should be moist but not wet, and relative humidity dropped to 40%. When the cotyledons have expanded, the plugs can be fertilized once a week at 50-75 ppm N with a low phosphorus fertilizer, such as 14-0-14, 17-5-17, or 21-5-20. Verify that the fertilizer used is compatible with your water. At this stage, it is recommended to apply fungicides to prevent Thielaviopsis and Rhizoctonia. This stage lasts from 7 to 10 days.
Stage 3. During this stage, which lasts from 15-24 days, the true leaves develop, roots reach the edge of the plug, and auxiliary (side) shoots start to develop. Substrate pH should be between 5.8 and 6.2, EC <1.5 dS/m, and substrate temperature should be maintained at 76.5˚F (±1.5˚F). Substrate should still be moist but not dry, as this can lead to root damage and induce iron deficiency. As mentioned before, proper watering is crucial; avoid watering in the late day or evening, as vincas could be vulnerable to airborne diseases. Assuming these fertilizers are compatible with the water quality, sources suggest alternating fertilizers such as 20-10-20 and 14-0-14, and application once per week at a rate of 100-150 ppm N. At this stage, growth regulators can be used to control height, and a preventive fungicide application is recommended for Thielaviopsis, Pythium, Phytophthora and Rhizoctonia .
Stage 4. This final finishing stage lasts from 25-35 days. Substrate pH, EC, watering, and temperature remain the same as the previous stage. Sources suggest fertilization once a week with 14-0-14 at 100-150 ppm N (the goal is to minimize the application of ammonium and phosphorus). Monitor substrate pH as it can quickly increase while using a potentially basic fertilizer. Growth regulators can be used for height control, and preventive fungicide applications are still recommended for Thielaviopsis, Pythium, Phytophthora and Rhizoctonia.
Growing On: If you do not grow your own vinca plugs and have them shipped in, it is necessary to do a visual inspection of the roots and leaves for pests and diseases. The roots should be white, fuzzy, and present all around the substrate. Transplant plugs immediately to avoid stress. Vinca roots are fragile, therefore avoid over-handling the plugs. If the roots suffer damage, it is very difficult to get them to fully recover and they are more susceptible to diseases.
When transplanting, do not plant vinca plugs deep; the top of the plug should be level with the surface of the substrate. The pH of the substrate should be between 5.4-6.2, and EC from 1.25-1.5 dS/m. By maintaining the low end of the optimum pH range, iron uptake is more efficient and it will also help suppress Thielaviopsis. Vincas prefer to be grown in a very warm environment and this is why many growers have difficulty with them. Daytime temperatures should be around 82˚F (±2˚F), and at night, around 68˚F (±1˚F). Temperatures below 64˚F can stunt plant growth and cause leaves to turn yellow. Moreover, temperatures under 60˚F for several days can delay flowering. Vinca growth and development is optimal in full sunshine.
After transplanting vinca plugs, it is necessary to thoroughly water in without any fertilizer. After a week, begin constant liquid fertilization at a rate of 100-150 ppm N. The fertilizer used will depend on water quality and should have a nitrogen-potassium ratio of 1:1. Some sources suggest using 20-10-20 alternated with 15-0-15. If needed, add magnesium sulfate (Epsom salts) to your “potentially acidic” feed at a rate of 2-4 ounces / 100 gal, or once a month at a rate of 16 oz/ 100 gal. Avoid applying fertilizer with ammonium rates >25ppm, because it inhibits root growth, or phosphorus rates >20ppm, because it can cause stretching in plants.
Irrigate vincas in the morning so any water on the leaves can evaporate by evening. A good recipe for disease is watering when air circulation is low and later in the day, since the leaves cannot dry by evening. Allow the growing medium to dry out between waterings (the surface of a peat-based substrate should turn light brown to tan before watering), since the lack of oxygen can stress roots and make them susceptible to root diseases. If plants look like they need water in the afternoon, it is better to wait and water them the next morning.
Plug size is important regarding crop growth and finishing; small plugs take more time to mature than larger plugs. This can be explained because the root system is smaller than in large plugs. It is difficult to get good quality plants if the seedlings are too small or too big. Small plugs (512’s and 384’s) are recommended for pack production, 288’s are recommended for pot production, and 72’s for hanging baskets.
Insects and Diseases: Insects that commonly infest vincas are aphids, thrips, spider mites, and white flies. In order to have good control over these pests, use good scouting and maintain good sanitation by pulling weeds and quarantining new plants that come into the greenhouse.
Diseases can be avoided by utilizing clean trays and containers, using a high porosity substrate with a good drainage capacity, and by creating conditions that do not favor diseases such as: low humidity, warm substrate and air temperatures, dry leaf surfaces (especially into the evening), and allowing the substrate to dry out. The most common diseases of vincas are black root rot (caused by Thielaviopsis, the most common root disease in vincas) and damping-off (caused by Rhizoctonia, Pythium and Phytophthora). Vincas that are under stress from overwatering, high EC, cold temperatures, improper pH, etc. are most susceptible to attacks from these pathogens. Symptoms that indicate your vincas are being attacked include:
Vinca infested with Thielaviopsis: Thielaviopsis: Vincas appear stunted with interveinal chlorosis, similar to iron deficiency. The roots look black from the black spores that reside within them. Roots are more susceptible to black root rot if they are exposed to high EC, high pH (>5.5) and low temperatures.
Rhizoctonia: Vincas turn yellow and fall over or break at the base of the stem. The roots have brown lesions which obstruct water uptake; the leaves become yellow and the plant suddenly dies.
Pythium: Roots become tan to brown. It starts at the growing tip of the roots and it progresses to the base of the roots. Vincas start to suffer because water uptake decreases and plants start to wilt, or in the worst case scenario, they die. Pythium is a water mold that thrives in a saturated substrate. It easily attacks plants that are stressed from high EC and temperature extremes in the substrate.
Phytophthora: Symptoms appear to be similar to those of other root diseases; the roots become dark brown. Phytophthora is also a water mold that thrives in a wet substrate. It can also attack vincas above the soil line, and it appears as dark lesions on the stem causing the upper portion to wilt and die.
Take-Home Message: Vincas like high temperatures, high relative humidity, high light, a non-saturated, porous substrate, and low initial fertilization. In addition, water early in the day to allow foliage to dry before evening, and allow the substrate to dry out between waterings. Monitor the substrate and avoid high pH and high EC."
**Obtained seeds from HPS, Jams 'n' Jellies American Pie mix. Started seeds indoors 2/16/16, following the above instructions as best possible. Got very acceptable germination; they began flowering around 4/11/16, and on 4/26 I transplanted them into individual pots and moved them to the greenhouse, with a total of 42 plants. I had considered potting them up to the flower boxes instead, but only pink and white ones are flowering at this point and I hope to still get some of the 'blue' flowered plants, so will wait and see so that I can better arrange the colors in the boxes. Even if I only get pink and white blooms I think they will be quite striking in the boxes!
Moving them to the GH when I did proved to be too early and they developed what was apparently a fungal disease; I moved them back indoors, where it was warmer, and most did survive although probably did not do as well as they should have. They did, however, flower nicely in the planters and I consider this first try at growing them a success.
**2017: obtained seeds for "Cora's Cascade" from HPS, started indoors 2/4/17 (in vermiculite). Transplanted to 6-packs on 2/24/17. Continuing to do very well in mid March, with nice dark green leaves.
8/11/2015: I have quite a few different varieties of beans growing in my 2015 garden, some from the Piggy Seed Swap last fall and some that I bought to try (almost all are old heirloom types). I have only a few plants of most of them, just to multiply the seed that I started with and to make sure I have fresh seed; the bean seeds stay viable for quite a few years, so next year I won't have to grow them all out again.
One that I got in the seed swap was just labeled "Cranberry," and it wasn't one I requested but a "gift packet," so I don't know who it actually came from. I wasn't really aware that there are actually many different beans called "Cranberry," some pole types, some bush types, but the vast majority are most suitable for using as green shell beans or dry beans (not snap beans). So I was surprised to find, while checking through the plants yesterday, that the pods on my "Cranberry" beans are slender, flat, tender and very tasty (raw, at least; I pulled one off to try it). Also, most varieties have pods that are streaked with red, and these are just a solid medium green color.
*Update 8/21/15: Some of the pods are starting to "mature" and are now a yellowish color with red streaks.
I'm hoping I can unravel some of the history of the "cranberry beans" -- why are there so many different beans that go by that name, and what is this that I'm actually growing?
Victory Seeds sells a variety called Gross Brother's Vermont Cranberry http://www.victoryseeds.com/be...
Their photos certainly look like the beans that I have, although the seeds I started with weren't as brightly colored or as distinctly marked.
My seeds:
Victory Seeds also lists "Cranberry Bush Bean, Dry" (although there is no photo of the pods), as well as the bean "Tongue of Fire" comes up with a search for cranberry beans.
Russ Crow ("A Bean Collector's Window") says this about the Gross Brothers Vermont Cranberry: "Bush/Dry/Snap. About 65 days for snaps and 90 days to first dry beans. A Vermont woman rescued these beans from an old gardener who had passed away and had grown these beans for many years in the Cold Hollow mountain region near Enosburgh, Vermont. I obtained this variety from Victory Seeds in Molalla, Oregon."
An older description of the Gross Brothers Vermont Cranberry bean, quoted on "TheExtremeGardener" blog ( http://theextremegardener.good... ), says:
"65 to 85 days — An heirloom variety that was sent to us several years back by a gardening friend. She rescued it from an older gardener who has since passed away but who had grown it for many years in the short gardening season of the Cold Hollow Mountain region near Enosburgh, Vermont. Introduced commercial by us in 2007. We have been growing out limited quantities and are making them available to home gardeners. The seeds are buff and heavily mottled with cranberry coloring. They are used as green beans when young or dried. There are four to five seeds per five inch pod. The plants are upright and do not require support."
She comments that the photos in the Victory Seeds catalog appear to be the same plant as what she had been searching for and what she knew as the "Johnson Bean," which she believes referred to the town of Johnson, VT. She also concluded that "...the terms “cranberry” and “Vermont cranberry” were liberally applied to nearly any old horticultural-type bean – or should I say any bean with horticultural-type markings… and there were and are lots of them. "
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Vermont Bean Seed Company lists "Krimson" and "Etna Bush Shell Bean" as cranberry beans.
Fedco Seeds lists "True Red Cranberry Pole" and "Vermont Cranberry"
Amishland Seeds sells "True Red Cranberry Pole" with this description: "This is the rare heirloom bean that was rediscovered by celebrated bean collector, John Withee. He searched for 11 years for this bean after reading about a "Red Cranberry" bean in a 1700's gardening encyclopedia. He finally discovered it growing on a Mr. Taylor's farm in Steep Falls, Maine. These beans are fat and shiny and a wondrous deep cranberry red color that does not show up well in photos. These beans really do look like real cranberries, only a bit darker red in color. These are probably one of America's oldest bean varieties, probably of Native American origin . True Red Cranberry beans grow on stocky, shortish 6 foot vines and can take the cold and short growing seasons better than any other bean I have grown. They have a rich flavor unlike any other bean I have tasted They are one of my personal favorites not only for beauty but for taste."
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Limelight beans:
Description of Limelight on Fedco site:
Limelight Dry Bean (60 days shell, 85 days dry) A versatile variety, excellent both as a shell and a dry bean. Compact plants set light green to white seeds similar in shape, color and taste to baby limas, except much easier to grow in our climate and sweeter with a buttery texture. Developed in Alberta, Canada.
Description on Heritage Harvest Seeds (Canadian):
Limelight 1968
Developed at the Lethbridge Research Station and released in 1968. A selection of "Princess of Artois" with larger seeds and pods. The beans are used in the green shell stage and have a flavor and appearance similar to Lima Beans. Limelight did very well for me and was very productive with no signs of disease. Seeds are an ivory white color when dry. This variety was once carried by seed companies but has now become EXTREMELY RARE.
Type: Bush
Days to Maturity: 70-80 days for dry beans
Green Limelight (seeds have a green coloration): http://pubs.aic.ca/doi/pdf/10....
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Flageolet beans: My interest in this has been piqued because SSE has a bean called Cheverbel listed as a "stewardship opportunity." It is being discontinued from the Heritage Farm collection because of lack of history in the US.
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http://www.loverofcreatingflav... This page has this information about Flageolet beans:
“The Caviar of Beans”, flageolet are also known under numerous cultivar names, such as Chevrier, (which is the original heirloom bean), Elsa, Flambeau, Flamingo, Chelinex, Cheverbel, Chevrinor, Flagrano, Roi des Verts, Vernel, and so on. Flageolet beans are so popular in Australia, one of the principal growers, alongside California, that they have their own varieties. The biggest producers of flageolet beans are Brazil, India and China. Flageolet beans plump up when cooked, and have a mild flavour and creamy texture that goes well with traditional Cassoulets and is a very popular accompaniment to lamb. The best flageolet are harvested when they are still very young and tender.
The dried varieties are usually dried whilst still in the pod after picking, then shelled when the pod is dry. An excellent bean for use in any recipe requiring legumes, flageolet beans have a creamy texture but resist falling apart when cooked. They really are the perfect bean! The flageolet is actually a variety of the common bean (Phaseolus vulgaris) and is small, light green, and kidney-shaped.
These beans, which have a very tender skin, are actually small, young haricot beans that have been harvested and dried before they are fully ripe. The bean is removed from the pod when tender and just maturing. In America, this bean, which originated in France in the 1800’s, is mainly grown in the fertile soil of California. The pod of the Flageolet is inedible. Although the original flageolet beans are a pale green, there are now many varieties in other colours: black, white, red, or yellow. Flageolet do not require soaking and cook relatively quickly, even the dried beans require only a little longer to cook without soaking first. Flageolet beans can be served on their own merit with lamb, chicken and fish.
Bonduelle is the biggest producer of canned flageolet in France and according to their website flageolet belongs to the same family as the broad bean, lentil and chickpea. It is a herbaceous annual plant, with trifoliate leaves, which grows in temperate/hot climates, and comes in varying sizes. Climbing varieties, with twining stems, can grow up to several metres high. The flowers, grow in bunches and the fruit are pods opening into two valves. Flageolet beans in cans and frozen are always prepared using fresh, green seeds of certain varieties of beans, which are harvested in September and October. Flageolet beans are high in energy because they contain all the reserves necessary to the future plant during its germination. It is rich in carbohydrates, fibre and vitamin B9."
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Another long article here: http://www.plantnames.unimelb....
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Johnny's Seeds sells Flagrano.
Nichols Garden Nursery sells "French Flageolet Bush Bean"
SSE catalog has "Green Flageolet"
SSE has one member w/ "Flambeau"
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From: http://vegetablesofinterest.ty...
"The Flageolet bean had its beginnings in France in the early 1800s. The French were making refinements in dwarf bean types that had first appeared in England. These early Flageolets were red, white or black but their tastes were described as similar. In 1878, however, a farmer near Paris named Gabriel Chevrier introduced something entirely new. His bean was light green in color with a smallish squared shape. And most importantly the Chevrier bean had a wonderful light, fresh taste. It was an immediate sensation with fine French chefs.
Today the Flageolet bean remains a ‘classic’ in a number of French dishes and it is considered a bean of “refinement.” The original Chevrier bean, however, has largely been replaced by ‘improvements’ such as Flavert, Soissons Vert and Triomphe des Chasiss. In America any flageolet bean is difficult to find and the most common strain is the oddly named “Flagrano.” These new introductions have disease resistance that Chevrier lacks and they tend not to display Chevrier’s tiresome habit of falling over. Still, a few gardeners with supple spines and a sanguine outlook about occasional crop failures have kept the original Chevrier Vert in private circulation.
I have grown both Flagrano and the Chevrier Flageolet bean. Neither seemed particularly keen to grow or produce well in my Northern California garden. My guess is that they would prefer a cooler summer climate, better soil and more water. So would I.
Flageolet beans are typically used as a dry bean but for a short time in August they can be found in France as a “semi-dry” or “shelly bean.” I’ve read that the old time French farming technique to produce them is to pull up the entire bean plant when the pods are filled. When the pods are slightly wrinkled they are ready to be shelled. The technique sounds credible since it is the same used in Appalachia to made “shucky beans.”"
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http://www.tierravegetables.co...
"Flageolet
Origin: Pronounced fla-jo-LAY. Flageolets were first developed by Gabriel Chevrier in Brittany, France, in 1872 and were noted as a favorite of the famous French chef Auguste Escoffie. Flageolets have always been associated with elegant cooking. It became especially famous at the International Paris Exposition in 1878 and chefs of Paris were quick to incorporate the new ingredient.
Cooking: Flageolets have a delicate, thin skin so should be cooked slowly and gently until tender. The reward for this gentle cooking is a spectacularly creamy texture. This is a great ingredient for light, sophisticated recipes. The beans are often paired with lamb and look beautiful when served with leeks in the winter.
Growing: Flageolets are a bush bean. The dry bean seeds may dry green (referred to as vert) rather than white. They are also often harvested as a fresh shelling bean."
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http://www.specialtyproduce.co...
Current Facts:
The Flageolet Shelling bean is an heirloom bush bean variety and members of the Phaseolus vulgaris genus, the most widely cultivated genre of beans in the world. The original cultivar of Flageolet beans (Soisson Vert à Rames) is only available to a few select growers in the world, of which, one is Seed Savers Exchange within the United States. Flageolet beans are also known to show up in other colors including yellow, black, red and white. The Flageolet Shelling beans are also their seeds. Seeds left on the plant or harvested to dry can be saved and sown for future crops.
Description/Taste:
Produced in an inedible pod, Flageolet Shelling beans are distinguished by their small, kidney-shaped beans and pale lime green coloring. Their attractive pale green color is unique to their species and their size is notably dwarf. When picked young, fresh and semi-dry they are at their most optimal eating state. The Flageolet Shelling beans are creamy and firm in texture, nutty, sweet and mellow in flavor.
Applications:
Although Flageolets are often harvested as a fresh bean, dried Flageolets make a great soup or puree. These beans, unlike other shelling beans do not typically require soaking. Cook them low and slow and their texture will continue to get buttery, making for a sweet, rich brothy and creamy soup or puree. Cooking times will be shorter as soaking is not required. Complimentary pairings include bacon, ham, corn, chiles, tomatoes, chicken, cumin. garlic, oregano, stewed pork, cooked eggs, cream, herbs such as cilantro, arugula, mint and basil, melting and fresh cheeses, light-bodied vinegars, feta, citrus, pea tendrils, roasted fish and beef, bitter and mild greens, butter and olive oil.
Geography/History:
The Flageolet bean is both rare (endangered heirloom status) and famous! Its notoriety began briefly after its cultivation in 1872, as it was introduced at the International Paris Exposition in 1878. It became a favorite of the legendary chef, Escoffie, his validation brought the Flageolet elite status that has nearly unwavered in over 100 years. Flageoet Shelling beans are best suited for arid and coastal Mediterranean climates with rich organic soil and warm to hot summers. They are grown throughout temperate Europe and North America.
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https://worcesterallotment.wor...
info on this site includes:
Know your Flageolet bean – Varieties:
The bean is available in a variety of colours including white (flageolet blanc), black (noir), yellow (jaune), red (rouge) or green (vert).
Flageolet bean varieties include:
Chevrier (the original heirloom)
Elsa
Flambeau
Flamingo
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https://www.frenchgardening.co...
sells Chevrier and Red Flageolet (aka "Cock's Kidney")
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SSE has the following:
Flageolet, French
Flageolet
Flageolet Noir
Flageolet Rouge
Flageolet Black
Brita's Foot Long
Flambeau
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http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bi...
(this is a USDA site that provides "germplasm" for research and education)
They list the following varieties of flageolet beans:
Pleurs
Triomphe des Chassis
Chevier
Blanc du Nord
Blanc de Vitry
Blanc a Longue Cosse
Roi des Verts
Flageolet bush dry bean
Merveille
Amarillo
Flageolet
Flageolet Vert
G478A (Roi des Verts)
Plant Conservation Alliance: https://www.nps.gov/plants/
Wild Ones: http://www.wildones.org/
Planting a Native Plant Butterfly Habitat Garden: http://www.wildones.org/wp-con...
Prairie Moon Nursery is a great source of seeds, plants, and information !
http://nativeplants.msu.edu/lo...
June Berry (a/k/a Serviceberry):
http://smallfarms.cornell.edu/...
from http://macphailwoods.org/natur...
Red Osier Dogwood:
Found on wet sites and tolerant of flooding, it is common in roadside ditches, damp areas of fields and on streambanks, although it can grow well on drier sites. This dogwood spreads by suckering and layering, forming dense thickets. It grows best in full sun, but will grow slowly, and with less fruit production, in shade.
One of the easiest shrubs to grow from either summer or winter cuttings. For larger transplants, make cuttings in the summer and plant to a nursery bed when roots are established. Using this technique, our plants averaged 14 inches (35 cm) at the end of the second summer, with the tallest 24 inches (60 cm). Some were even producing seed. Smaller rooted cuttings are useful in stream plantings, enabling you to put in large numbers of plants with little soil disturbance. Cuttings can also be taken in the spring and stuck right in the ground where you would like the plants to grow, although you need moist, protected conditions and can expect less success. Seeds take one or two years to germinate, depending on the hardness of the seed coat, but they are easily collected in large numbers and worthwhile growing. Collect when ripe from late July to the end of August. Crush fruit, separate and soak seed for 12 hours before planting. This dogwood also transplants very well, especially from roadside ditches.
Winterberry Holly
Holly propagation from cuttings is difficult, since they rarely make the vigorous growth needed for good cutting material. Transplanting is also difficult, since they have spreading roots tend to be tall and leggy. The best way to grow new hollies is from seed. The berries can be collected any time during the winter and the seeds cleaned out with a fine strainer and water. These cleaned seeds should be stored in a dry, cool place and planted in early spring spring in a garden bed. They will normally not germinate until the next spring.
Staghorn Sumac
Difficult to grow from seed; spreads prolifically from root suckers.
Wildlife usage: Berries are a preferred food source for ruffed grouse, ring-necked pheasant, eastern phoebe, common crow, northern mockingbird, gray catbird, American robin, wood thrush, hermit thrush, eastern bluebird and European starling. It is also used by over 30 other species, and since the fruit hangs on throughout the winter, is another excellent emergency source of food. Honeybees are attracted to the flowers in spring.
Mountain Ash
Gather berries in late September and remove pulpy flesh by hand. Each berry contains up to 10 tiny seeds. Plant in nursery beds and cover lightly with soil. Seeds will germinate the second spring and grow quite quickly. At Macphail Woods, our first year’s growth averaged 16 inches (40 cm).
Wildlife Uses: Berries are a preferred food source of ruffed grouse, gray catbird, American robin, eastern bluebird, European starling, cedar waxwing, common grackle, northern oriole, evening grosbeak and pine grosbeak. Crops are fairly regular and the ability to hang on throughout winter makes the berries excellent emergency food. See ourAttracting Birds in Winter page for more information. Beaver eat the bark and snowshoe hare browse on winter twigs. Yellow-bellied sapsuckers drill larger specimens for sweet sap.
Invasive plant species in Michigan: http://mnfi.anr.msu.edu/invasi...
Invasive plant species in Wisconsin: https://www.uwgb.edu/biodivers...
Buckthorn: https://www.minnesotawildflowe...
Wild Parsnip: http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/inv...
Phragmites: http://www.michigan.gov/deq/0,...
Autumn Olive: http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/a...
Garlic Mustard: http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/g...
Canada Thistle: http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/inv...
In 2014 I purchased an American Wisteria, "Blue Moon," which is supposed to be hardy here; I wintered it over in my veg garden and it came through the winter beautifully. I've purchased a nice arbor kit, with the intention of growing the wisteria on it, but now I'm wondering if it might be better to actually train the trunk on a separate post near one corner of the arbor... that way it would become self supporting and the branches up at the top could still drape over the top of the arbor to give the effect that I want.
Growing a wisteria as a tree:
http://garden.org/blogs/entry/...
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/t...
