Hello,

In October of last year (2017) I bought a pretty mini parade rose from Trader Joe's. I separated the four that were in the pot and all are living. When I re-potted them I made sure to wash away all the original medium from around the roots because I read a forum here that the medium is filled with an overabundance of fertilizer and moisture retentive something or other to keep them looking good. My question is how long should I wait to fertilize seeing as how they are very young plants. Can I fertilize lightly when I start fertilizing all my other roses, or should I wait?

On another note just picked up this little beauty at Trader Joe's yesterday, hopefully I can successfully separate this one as well.








Thank you
Carly

The rule of thumb is to wait until you see new growth.

There is no way you can transplant a rose, young or older, without damaging the feeder roots. The first thing the rose will do is grow new feeder roots. It will use the starches and sugars already in the top growth to provide the energy to grow the new roots.

When you see new top growth, that tells you the root system is working and ready to perform it's natural function for the plant. Saturate the plant the day before feeding and use a diluted liquid fertilizer to feed your plants. Feed often and lightly. btw ... make sure they have excellent drainage.

Good luck with your new roses.

Hi Lyn,

Thank you. That is perfect logic, couldn't ask for a better answer/explanation. I will wait for more noticeable top growth.

Thanks again
Carly

Thank you for the acorn, Carly ...

Your very welcome, thank you!

I also have about six small parade roses. Each one a different color. I lined them up hoping to eventually have a small parade Rose hedge. I got them from the grocery store, they were obviously from a protected greenhouse as they were all in bloom with perfect dark foliage. I did something bad. I planted them over the hot summer and they didn't look so hot. But now they look really good and happy and all but one has a big spike of leafy new growth and buds. I am getting ready to feed mine to help them along. My only complaint is that they aren't fragrant but I knew that when I bought them.

Hope your roses 🌹 are flourishing for you 😀

Mindi

Awesome Mindi!

That's great to hear! Thank you I'm going to try my best.

Awesome Mindi!

Oh, yeah ... I was lucky to have him as my rose mentor almost from the beginning of my rose life. I had to do a LOT of homework just to understand what he was talking about in the beginning ...

Carly .... you should be able to root cuttings easily in San Diego.

When I lived in El Cajon, I had a 90% take.

Here I will attempt to show some of my parade roses just starting to bloom. One has some type of mildew on it I think... my white one? It's a silvery kind of dusting. What do you do for that? Anyway on with the fun!!

Oh and I forgot these parade rose shots. I have a lot to look forward to!







Not the best phone photos but lots of buds!!

Lovely! Such a full and colorful garden.

Thank you Porkpal!! 🌹😀

Wow Mindi!

Those are beautiful! I think I'm going to plant some of mine out today. They look really healthy too. Yeah one of mine had that on it too, I sprayed with neem lightly and it seemed to do the trick. Thank you for posting those pictures, funny because I was going to ask if you could post some and here they are.

Thank you carlysuko!! Yeah I need to get that spray, and soon!!

Thank you for the kind words. I love those 🌹 little roses!!

Heads up about using any spray products that have fats or oils in them on your roses .. and other plants ..

Even if you rinse the plant off after application, the spray ... think anything with soap in it ... or oil, leaves a residue on the leaf. You cannot get it off. You can test this by spraying a piece of lettuce and trying to get every bit of the residue off ...

The only sprays that "wash off" are water soluable.

In the garden, you need a window of no spraying of 6 to 8 weeks where temperatures are lower than 85F after application to avoid burned foliage.

Thank u Lyn, good information.

Thank you for that. My poor white rose is getting covered in the stuff 😢. I'll get the spray tomorrow!!!

Tracy ...

Roses that are susceptible to mildew seem to just get mildew when conditions are right. That said, where you plant your roses can make a difference for those that are not as prone to mildew.

One of your best defenses is to make sure that there is excellent air circulation around the plant.

You have your roses sited in a bed with other plants. It's hard to get good air circulation in that situation for a rose.

Another thing you might look at is whether or not cool, moist air pools in that area of your garden. That situation often encourages the development of mildew.

Carly is growing a rose that I grew as a tree rose in San Diego, 'Sweet Chariot'. When I had the rose out in front of my condo, it was always covered in mildew. I finally realized that cold air dropped off of the mesa above the culdesac in front of my condo and decided to move the rose, which was in a container to the back. In back of my condo, there was always a slight breeze, so the air never pooled in that area.

'Sweet Chariot' was always clean once I moved it to a site with good air circulation and had no disease problems. Same rose, but in a different location.

A healthy plant is always more disease resistant. So your cultural practices can also make a difference.

During my rose life, I have always looked at the factors which may cause disease and what I can do as a gardener to reduce disease conditions before I reached for a spray. That's just my style of gardening.

Iam going to spray fungicide on my white parade rose. Should I spray the others as a prophylactic or just as needed?

Thanks in advance!!😀

Mindi

I agree with Lyn that cultural practices can make a difference.

Sometimes, though, the problem is chiefly with the choice of cultivar. Five or six years ago I planted Permanent Wave in my garden. It is possible that I provided too much nitrogen to the plant at just the wrong time of year, but it came down with the most profound case of powdery mildew I have ever seen on any plant. Within two or three days every rose within fifteen feet was getting the disease. I promtly dug it up and moved it. It did not survive. The roses in that area still are lightly touched by the disease at some point almost every year, but they recover quickly with a light spraying of Actinovate SP.

I usually use this every six weeks or so starting in March. (I'm sure the label instructions are more useful than mine...) I generally focus on plants that have suffered from fungal disease the prior season. And I try to make sure that the shady areas with damp mulch in them get some treatment, especially where these are close to roses that suffer.

Is your fungicide a petrochemical derivative, a bioactive, a sulfur compound, or a bicarbonate?