Algae can multiply quickly in ponds with an overabundance of nitrogen and phosphorus, particularly when the water is warm, and the weather is calm. This proliferation causes blooms of free-floating algae that turn the water noticeably green.
You are right about the plants not killing off the present algae. Shade plants and plants that utilize the nutrients before they develop and become food for the algae are the key to controlling the nutrients.
A UV light does not "solve" the present situation; it just kills algae, but the source of nutrients that lead to free-floating algae remain, mainly hydrogen and prosperous continue to proliferate. A UV light will work if it is killing more algae than the pond is producing. It is the same with adding beneficial bacteria that helps consume the nutrients before they become available for algae. Both can only accomplish so much if the sun, temperature, and nutrients continue to proliferate, so one or more methods need to be employed.
Nutrient starving is accomplished by reducing the sun load (especially as the water warms) with plants or some sort of natural shade (like trees) or artificial shade (like a sun sail). Shading a large area of a pond by adding plants like lilies since they have such a big spread are a good start. Lilies also help to absorb the nutrients, but not as well as some other plants. Adding plants that utilize nutrients before they become available to the free-floating algae also help to reduce the algae load, such as floating plants like frogbit, hornwort, hyacinth, and water lettuce; bog plants like water iris and Pickerelweed; and submerged plants like fanwort or anacharis, just to name a few.
A main reason for adding plants like lilies (besides their beauty) is to create a minimum of 60% shade over the pond so the sun stops "encouraging" the free-floating algae to form and begins to deprive the present algae of light and keep the water cooler; nothing like too much sun and its warmth to help the algae grow. Next, is to add other plants that use the nutrients earlier in their development before they become available to the single-cell free-floating algae. Lilies do that but not as well as some other plants. Plants like Frogbit, hornwort, hyacinths, water lettuce, and some others are excellent at using up nutrients before they become available for free-floating alga. These two actions will reduce the free-floating, single-cell algae from forming in the first place. Now, if one has string algae and/or blanket algae, this will not work. They have to be physically removed.
Like uv's, beneficial bacteria, and plants, barley straw does not kill existing algae, but inhibits the new growth of algae. The exact mechanism is poorly understood, but it seems that barley straw, when exposed to sunlight and in the presence of oxygen, produces a chemical that inhibits algae growth. Remove the barley, and the algae begins to proliferate again. I'm very familiar with barley straw; I just choose not to use it because it only temporarily alleviates the algae while it floats around the pond. It is not a long-term solution.
I have an acquaintance who has a pond and he uses no mechanical filtration, no UV, and no chemicals. He does all filtration with plants. His pond looks like the water was just poured into it, crystal clear right to the bottom. He does have algae that grows to about 1/4 inch on the stones, but that algae is normal, expected and beneficial for fish as they nibble on it. This is what I hope to accomplish at some point. It took him several years to accomplish this.
So many people kill off their fish, and plants, in aquariums in particular, but ponds as well, because they want nothing but crystal-clear water and clean surfaces without any natural growth at all. This expectation is crazy, because a healthy water environment entails some algae and growth to sustain life in the closed water container.
Eventually, I would like to ditch the pump, filter, and UV light, and use only plants to filter my pond, but that takes several years of living with green water. It's inescapable. The plants I have now are a help, but I need a lot more, or I need an artificial "umbrella" to shade the pond (uh-uh).
If you are interested in natural ponds, I own a book by one of the leading builders and innovators when it comes to natural ponds.
Building Natural Ponds: Create a Clean, Algae-free Pond without Pumps, Filters, or Chemicals by Robert Pavlis. He also has a YouTube channel with 17 of his videos dealing with this subject.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?...
This is the first one he built on his property (still there today).
https://youtu.be/0W8BapMq5hQ?l...
(This video was an inspiration for us and the starting point for us to build one.)
Good article:
Do You Need Pond Pumps and Pond Filters to Control Algae?
https://www.gardenmyths.com/po...
My next door neighbor wants to build a natural swimming pool. Now, those are cool!
https://www.youtube.com/result...
When I dug my pond, I planned for a different design with a large bog area and more plant shelves that would have gone a long way to filter the water. But, because of some limitations with digging, mainly rudimentary digging tools. We could not get a backhoe or other large shovel into the food forest, so we used shovels, picks, and an electric jack hammer. Removing the soil 1 bucket at a time into a wheelbarrow, and then relocating the clay and rocks, and two old men preforming the digging, the original design was scrapped midway in the process. If I had known it was going to be that hard to create the FF pond, I don't think I would have started the project. However, like most of my projects, I do them as "experiments".