Newyorkrita said:Liza, I was also just thinking that I don't know where you can get seedlings in the fall as most nurseries only stock on the spring. Even for spring planting some veggies are so really really easy from seed that it is so better alternative to costly plants. Beans, peas, cucumbers, squash, any type of melon and most greens like your spinach and Bok Choi are very, very easy from seed.
Are you planning on bush beans or pole beans? Bush beans stay short (about 2 feet or so) but pole beans climb and need some sort of support. In fact peas need something to grab onto also.
You might want to put up a trellis at the back of the garden for those climbing vegetables. Or up near your fence that I see in the background.
Newyorkrita said:I am a bit confused about the comment about 3 or 4 hours of sunlight. Veggies do best in full sun, 3 hours is not much. Not enough. However I have never gardened in California so some shade might be beneficial.
Newyorkrita said:Liza, there is no right or wrong way to reply. whatever works for you is good. And you have to start and you will learn as you go. Next spring you will know much more than you already do now.
Skiekitty said:Liza - also, another thing. As long as the plant doesn't die, you're doing it right! Some people grow things by "the book" Other people grow things unorthodoxly. But, as long as you're happy with the plants and (in your case) produces nommies to eat, then, whatever you're doing must be right!!
Oh, and
I remembered reading this article here by a fellow ATP/Cubit'er - Sharon. She's got the wisdom of the ages locked up in that pretty head of hers. And I love her articles!
http://garden.org/ideas/view/S...
RickCorey said:I love narrow raised beds so I only have to improve the soil in a small area. Then the soil is so rich that I can plant veggies close enough to crowd out weeds.
Your soil improvement might be an ongoing project for a few years, but eventually you'll get it so rich and aerated and well-draining that all it needs is compost 1-2 times per year, and some mulch. Until then, tilling and even (gasp) some chemical fertilizer might not be bad things. But many organic advocates do fine with fish and seaweed emulsions and lots of compost.
I dig up the soil in pathways that surround each bed and shovel it back on top of the bed, screening out rocks and roots. I mix in compost, sand, grit, compost, bark fines, compost, manure and compost at the same time. You can't add too much compost when starting a bed!
I dig down as far as 12 or more inches, and build the bed up to a total of 16" (my walls are made of paving stones from 8" to 16" tall). For me, drainage is a problem and soil is pure clay, so root-zone depth is a good thing. Also, I can't squat or kneel and even bending is tiring, so by lowering the pathway and raising the soil surface, I put my hands that much closer to ground level.
The pathways can be around 18" wide, or wider if you want a wheel barrow, or narrower if you are steady on your feet and space is at a premium.
Other people will say "What a waste of energy!" and just layer 12" of compost and compost-makings on top of whatever soil they have, without even turning it up with pick and garden fork! The they grow for a few years in the compost layer, while worms and watering mellows the underlying soil FOR them.
I guess I just like digging and turning the clay and dirt and rocks until they become soil.. Maybe there are some mole genes in my family history.