Does anyone still use Milorganite as fertilizer? This was recommended for use on a rose forum. The people who used it attested to great results. But I am afraid about its safety after reading this article and hearing the interview of this former EPA scientist and whistleblower who was fired for speaking up against biosolids use as fertilizer.

https://articles.mercola.com/s...

I have used milorganite on my daylilies for years. They love it. I top dress with it once or twice a year.

Very interesting article. Makes sense that the sludge would contain toxins.

It looks to me like so many of these types of debates, how can we know which science is correct? Do you trust the EPA, or a former EPA official? Do advances in science give us new technology to deal with the pollutants, or did the EPA sell out to Industry and politicians?
I do use Milorganite and it is recommended by many commercial growers of daylilies, but I would suggest not using it for food crops.

Miss Lamb....happy easter to you!!!!!

I use it. The stuff that comes from some of these tap water is not any better. Blood pressure meds statins etc. You can only filter out so much.
Be not deceived. As much as they try to separate waste from getting into the drinking water it is almost impossible. There are times when they have no choice when it starts to flood from excessive rain and snow. They can dig all the deep tunnels they want to, to collect rain water runoff. They can only hold so much. MHO of course

I use it alot, I think it works great for just about everything. I do not put on edibles.

Thank you for all your responses. Just want to make an informed decision by weighing the cons and pros.

Leslie and Pam, sounds like you have used it for a long time. Larry and Mike, do you use this fertilizer on your flower beds every year? Do you apply it like Leslie's, twice a year? Can I ask how long you all have used it and do you see any effect it has on your soil? Do you see increased earthworm? Does your soil condition improve?

Kousa,
I put it on with a hand spreader and then water in by hand to make sure to get it off the plants. I use one big bag per 8x40 bed. No science there, it's what I can afford. I have not noticed any difference in the soil from it and I agree with keeping it away from food crops.

If you want earthworms add alfalfa. Some folks recommend alfalfa meal but I get mine in the horse aisle at Tractor supply and use the nuggets. Water breaks it down pretty quickly into meal.

@kousa,
I have used it for several years, at least four I think. I normally apply 2 to 4 tablespoonfuls around each plant in the early spring. Dan Hansen says in one of his videos about preparing the beds, "Nothing greens up seedlings like Milorganite", I put that in quotes, but that may not be exact. I do it again in the fall, and when I have a new bed I broadcast it over the bed.
Now the important questions, has my soil improved and have I seen an increase in earth worm activity? You had better believe it, a huge improvement, tremendous improvement!!! Now I did not say that was due to the Milorganite...I am sure some of the improvement is, but being I have added tons or organic matter such as leaves and grass clippings and pine straw over the past many years and in the daylily beds for the past eight years. I do also use commerical granular fertilizer in my garden, and I can't tell it has done any harm or any good, I just feel with all the organic material I add throughout the year that I need extra nitrogen. I have not done a soil test because I add so much stuff every year I am not sure a soil test would be of any help. I just look at how the plants are growing and try to judge from that: as long as the great majority of them look healthy I feel if I am not doing something great, at least I am not doing something terrible. If the plants look happy, and the worms look happy then most of the time I look pretty happy also.

I broadcast a lot last fall. All my new or relocating plants get around two handful ( not the exact science that Larry uses - tablespoonful ) of my concoction. Namely Milorganite, Alfalfa pellets, meal and osmocote. Gardens Alive for perennials every couple years or so. I also use worm casting, mycorrhiza, Epson salt from time to time. Compost and manure for sure when starting new beds. The earthworms seem to love hanging around the Alfalfa. I try to topdress in the spring in the order of preference due to time constraints and slowly work my way down the line based on visual needs. Like Leslie said, the pellets will break down. I get the meal from a feed store that has to order it. I use it for the quicker effect before the pellets break down. It is all a matter of preference on this choice. Everything gets topped off with mulch. Working on incorporating the early spring micro nutrients that the famous hybidizer mentioned in his blog also.

If you soak your alfalfa pellets first they break down really quickly and also prevent the alfalfa soaking up water from the ground, these things really swell and absorb a lot so if you are in a low rainfall area they might take precious water from your plant roots if applied dry.

Even though it is a very wet climate here I still soak them before applying and digging in..

FYI, they can also be used as a tea if you have time to prep it.

I find I get nothing but rats with alfalfa.

Hello Mrs. Pont!

I do use the Milorganite in all my flower gardens and basically scatter it (also so hopefully the darn deer and bunnies won't like the smell). I do wonder though after reading your posts, if I should add a couple handfuls to newly planted daylilies and perennials IF I am also amending the soil with an organic compost. Would that be too much if I add compost AND Milorganite?

There is nothing I know of that you can't add too much of, just as far as growing power goes. I tried different amounts of alfalfa and asked around about how much was too much, but never found an answer ( not taking into consideration the attraction of critters). The same I think might be said of Milorganite, but the smell might be too strong before nitrogen value got too strong. It will be interesting to see if anyone has ever applied too much and burned any daylilies. I know there are limits, and would love to know what they are.

Someone on here said that it won't burn daylilies. I might be wrong, @Sooby, Sue comes to mind. Too much of a good thing can be bad depending on the circumstances. A plant can only use so much NPK. Moderation is the name of the game. Daylilies will thrive just about anywhere without fertilizer. We are just trying to get the maximum effect by adding to the soil. That's what I am aiming for anyway.

THanks all for sharing your experience and rate and frequency of application of Milorganite.

Larry, I totally agree with you. I don't think we can ever overdo or overadd organic materials to the soil. The soil life just loves it! Look at the forest. The soil is replenished with leaves, dead trees, and plants on a continuous basis. And you can't find a more loamy soil than forest soil.

Mike and Larry, now I get it why so many of your daylilies produce an abundant of blooms as well as so many poly blooms . It's probably from the Milorganite that you give them!

Mike, it's 6-2-0. As with all fertilizers, it's the amount you apply that determines whether it could damage the plants, and also the release rate. The nitrogen in Milorganite needs microorganisms to release it so it's not all available at once. It has a very large amount of iron at 4%, more than the P! When you consider that iron is a micronutrient, that's a lot. You'd also want to supply potassium if the soil tests inadequate since the analysis is 0 for K. I would say you can burn plants easier with other things but I wouldn't go so far as to say anything is incapable of burning if mis-used.