Thanks
@Rainbow for calling my attention to this thread. I haven't been on ATP much the past few months, so I'm way behind on threads.
There are a couple points I'd like to chime in on.
First is the notion of sunburn on a newly exposed caudex. Maybe this is an issue in hot, dry desert climates. But here in Florida, it appears not to be a consideration. Anyone that has been in central/southern Florida during summer (actually, most of the year) can attest that our sun exposure is quite intense. I have never protected the caudexes [caudices, if you prefer] on my Adeniums, mature or juvie, when replanting and exposing more caudex. It has never been an issue. The freshly exposed pale skin greens up over the next couple weeks.
This, of course, is not to say you can take a plant out of the shade and place it in full direct sun. Tender, shade-grown leaves are likely to burn.
As for pruning, I have a couple of thoughts.
First off, I see no reason to wait, especially if doing a major trim. Ideally the best time to trim a tree or shrub is a few days
before transplanting to allow the cut ends to heal before the transplant, but I usually do this on the same day, as I generally have too many projects going on to plan ahead on these minor details. This is true for most any plant. Newly disturbed roots are inefficient at transporting water and nutrients and may not be able to adequately support the full canopy for a while. How often have you transplanted something and it being wilty over the next few days? So =now= might be an excellent time to prune.
Secondly, is where to prune. YMMV as plant genetics for propensity to branching of the particular specimen are probably quite significant here. I only can express my thoughts as to where I would prune if the decision was mine.
I pruned back a number of yearling seed-grown Adeniums this past year. I learned a lot. But overall, if I could go back and do it over again, I would prune all the well-developoed young plants, not just about half of them. I would prune close to the caudex, never part way up the stem.
I say this because all I pruned back close to the caudex turned into nicer plants. Of those I cut the stem ~ in half, some produced only one new shoot at the tip of the remaining stem, while others (probably those already with the beginnings of side shoots) did develop more side stems. However, the tall central stem looked out of place among the smaller side shoots, and the side shoots grew much more slowly than those of plants more heavily pruned, apparently their growth still being inhibited by the large central stem.
This, of course, is personal preference, as not everyone likes the same look.
The cut stem easily becomes a new plant. If I don't use rooting powder on the cut end, I let the cut heal/callous before planting into moist soil. If I =do= use rooting powder (my SOP these days), I may let the powdered stem heal first, or I may immediately stick it in the soil. The difference depends on how important the cutting is to me. If highly important, I may wait a couple days before planting. However, the risk in waiting is in forgetting.
Any more, the determining factor is usually the age of the stem. In my experience, if the stem is woody, the rooting powder prevents rot, and the cutting proceeds to root and grow. If the stem is tender and succulent, some live but some rot if planted immediately. That said, I once had a new, 3/4" tall seedling pulled and bitten in half by a bird, who apparently then decided the plant was not edible. I knew the seedling was lost, but on a whim I stuck the cut end of the top in Rootone powder and planted immediately back into the community seedling pot. Surprisingly, it lived.
Just my thoughts, my 2¢ worth. I have a background in biology and may have occasional insights, but I am certainly no Adenium (or any other plant) expert. So my best advice is to consider my thoughts if you wish, and the thoughts and experiences of others as well, then make your own decision.
Ron
