I've been reading all the good info you guys have written in this forum but have a couple of questions before I start my seeds (nothing fancy, just a few from Park Seeds). I'm in zone 4 and we have been having a very warm (for us winter). I would like to try winter sowing my salvia, is it too early, too late, ???. If the temperature gets really cold again (say "0", would I need to bring the winter sown containers in?) My other option is under my grow lights in my basement-would that be a better choice at this time? Also, do most of you recommend the Promix HP? I found it at a local hydroponics store for $57/bale which is pricey, but I'll get it if you all think it's helpful. Do you really think it helps? I'm wondering if I could use a generic soiless seed starting mix and mist with something like tea tree oil to reduce the risk of damping off?
Thanks!

Hi @dmurray407 Deb,

Welcome to the Agastache and Salvias forum!

I don't grow seeds indoors, rarely do I sow them outside, don't have grow lights and don't use Promix HP, so I'm sorry I can't help you, but hopefully, some of the other members will chime in to help.

@FBTS are you able to answer her questions?

Marilyn

Not really much I can contribute. The climate difference is quite significant, as is our scale, facilities and care abilities. Sorry!

Which species of Salvia are you trying to grow?
That makes a big difference on how to handle them. Different species of Salvia come from many climates ranging anywhere from desert to rain forest.

Thanks Kermit and Danita for chiming in.

I have Park's Whopper Lighthouse (S. splendens) and 2 colors of Salvia Summer Jewel (S. coccinea ). Park's offers these growing instructions (I actually didn't notice these before):
"How to Sow Salvia:

The annuals are best sown indoors, 6-8 weeks before last frost, at alternating temperatures of 68 and 86°
Seeds will germinate in 12-15 days
Sow the red-flowering salvias with NO cover as they need light to germinate
If treating S. farinacea as an annual, sow indoors 12 weeks before last frost
The biennials are best sown outdoors in late summer and fall with flowers produced the following summer
The perennials are best sown outdoors in spring through summer, up to two months before frost
Alternatively, they can be sown indoors by following the protocol for annuals
If started early enough, perennials will flower in their first year
The seeds of S. splendens are not long lived and should not be stored
When sowing seed outdoors, we recommend a maximum planting depth of 4X the width of the seed"

It says to alternate temperatures between 68-86 degrees, but I have read about folks winter sowing in cooler zones, so wonder if anyone can help me out there. Maybe I would just be better off starting them inside under lights? I purchased a bale of the Promix HP on my way home tonight, so I should be able to use that either way, right? @FBTS (hope I did that right....), in the video on your website you say (I think:)) to use something like crushed rock to lightly cover the seeds-would fine baby chick grit work? I believe that it's crushed granite or something similar.
Thanks!

Fine baby chick grit is perfect.

Thanks again for chiming in Kermit!

I grow a lot of Salvia from seed here in the UK. Here I start annuals off about this time of year (and the perennials get started off in April). Apart from the smaller seeded species I use the baggy method for germination as this takes up less windowsill space in a warm room (20°centigrade). Germination usually starts at five days with potting on taking place at two to three weeks. Initially I pot several seedlings in a 45 millimetre pot (saving space again) before potting on individually about three weeks later. For the initial potting up medium I use coco fibre/vermiculite mix as this makes it easier to separate the seedlings when the time comes to pot up individually.
As far as light goes I have no problems relying on natural light in an appropriate windowsill so beyond that I cannot comment.
Results wise (depending upon conditions once the plants are moved to the greenhouse in April) S.coccinea is in bloom by early/mid June, likewise S.miltiorrhiza with S.algeriensis a couple of weeks later. S.splendens Yvonnes Giant seems to take till mid July to bloom and S.urica is a late summer bloomer here.
Of the perennial species S.patens can be treated as an annual in terms of timing and (my) growing regime and will usually be blooming well by the end of June/early July (weather conditions allowing).