I also have a small hill of clay removed from beds. Someday I might get it all amended - if I retire and find a source of free leaves for making compost.

I do let weeds grow in that hill if they can get started. Sometimes I scatter and scratch some cover crop seeds, but between the shade and the clay, they don't emerge.

I've heard that "forest products" are usually much more expensive in Europe than the USA. So perhaps shredded pine bark is not an option for soil amendments where you are. Bark doesn't last as long as grit or coarse sand, but they do release organic matter very slowly.

My hope is that, as the bark shreds decay, the clay around them is stiff enough that it does not subside; that it leaves small, stable air spaces behind. But I think that the clay slumps and subsides and fills every air space as soon as it gets moist.

Every weed I pull out gets thrown back in the beds. Every little green composting helps right :p

I don't know about the whole of Europe, but I have had some trouble getting my hands on ordinary compost. They do sell it in bags of 40l or so, but against outrageous prices. A big bag at a specialised company goes for 'only' 30euros. But everywhere I looked or whomever I mailed to, they either don't deliver to my area or the transport costs are so high I might aswell go and buy those same bags to get the same amount....It's rediculous!

That's a shame!

A lot of cities here compost their "biosolids" (treated sewage) and yard waste with sawdust. The standards for "Class A biosolids" are pretty strict about pathogens and metals.

Some cities give that away or charge little for it, but where I am, the company that does it (Cedar Grove Compost) gets the biosolids for free and then charges $35 per cubic yard for a product that is mostly sawdust.
1 m^3 = 1.31 cubic yards

They also sell it in bags, like 1 cubic foot for (I forget) around $5 per bag.
1 cubic foot = 28.3 liters.

I know the cities' container depot (is that the right translation? :p ) gives away 2 bucket loads of compost a day to anyone who asks, but only during the summer time or fall, don't remember. Larger quantities are against a price, but still, very cheap I've heard.
I actually had a big bag of soil improver (green compost mixed with mushroom compost) ordered for delivery today, but the guy hasn't turned up yet and it's nearly a quarter to 7...hate that! :p

Arico said:I know the cities' container depot (is that the right translation? :p ) gives away 2 bucket loads of compost a day to anyone who asks, but only during the summer time or fall, don't remember. ...

Hmm, "bucket loads"? Do you mean like a bulldozer or "steam shovel" "bucket" which could be 1-2 cubic meters? Or a hand-carried bucket that holds a gallon or two? (say 4-8 liters)

The cost of transportation is a major part of the total cost.

I found the local sewage treatment plant online, and contacted the engineer. ("Scheissemeister", he said). He must have been lonely, because he really wanted to talk and have people come visit his plant. If I had a truck and a shovel, I could have all the biosolids I wanted for free. They would be Class A even before the final composting with sawdust - like pure "greens" for a compost heap.

But he warned me they would be "fresh", and not very dry yet. Hence heavy and smelly. But if I had a truck, I WOULD be a frequent visitor!

No I literally mean two gallon buckets :p Anyway, the compost has been delivered at 9pm! :p Can't wait to start tomorrow. Btw, on heavy clay, do I either mulch on top or work it in with a fork? I have Pennisetum growing in that one bed, that's why I'm aking.

My policy on amending heavy clay is to always "work it in" for the first few years, to establish deep aeration as soon as possible. Grit, sand, compost and fine bark get turned under as much as 18" deep, but at least 12", for the first few years.

Many smarter people are patient enough to just sheet compost on top of the soil, or add lots of top-dress mulch that breaks down quickly, and wait a few years for worms and frosts and decomposition and "perking" to drag the organic matter down to where it is needed most. I'm not patient.

Even just adding mulch every year will EVENTUALLY soften the underlying clay as it slowly decomposes and drips organic matter and "humic acids" down through the clay. Or so they tell me.

>> I have Pennisetum growing in that one bed, that's why I'm aking.

I'm sorry, I know nothing about that. Hopefully someone will chime in. I don't know what forum would specialize in grasses!

"Fountain Grass"?
"Pearl Millet"?

P.S. I experimented with using Daikon radishes to penetrate and break up clay soil. I think I sowed at the wrong time of year, into amended soil, and they made almost no roots, just lots of pods and seeds.

Some of those scattered onto totally unimproved clay, and seemed to like it better there. A few volunteered the next year. But either they could NOT push all the way down into the clay, or these were trying to escape!

Rick, since we live in the same region, I wanted to suggest calendula, and Sweet woodruff for companion plantings for your clay. Both will grow just about any where in the Puget Sound, especially the calendula (some came up in fairly shady areas). The calendula have deep roots. The calendula flowers are a nice addition to salads and add a touch of color as well as mulch. An added benefit is they can grow almost year round depending on our winters. I gathered my seed from a parking lot years ago and have purposely kept only the orange color (yellow looks too much like dandelions, which are also great for helping to break up clay which I harvest what seems like tons of every year).

The sweet woodruff some consider invasive, but after 20 years haven't found it to be, but if you have gravely soil I can see how it could poise a problem. In shade it will form a shallow mat. With clay you could simply lift and turn to help provide a natural mulch. I don't believe in bare soil so this and the Pacific Bleeding Hearts cover shady areas and help provide soil cover.

Got my second brick supported (one sided) veggie area started and planted. . A few bags of fine bark when over this small area last spring. Amazing soil this year.

I love your raised bed. Bricks, paving stones AND cinder blocks? Cool!

I brought an orange Calendula plant home from Lowes once, and liked its color and bloom shape, but it didn't come back. Usually I grow from seed, but that plant jumped into my shopping cart and wouldn't get out.

Now that I finally look it up, I see "short-lived perennial", if that's the type I bought.

Also - you learn something every day - "Calendula" is what POT MARIGOLDS are! I always thought about trying "pot marigolds" some year. I might even have some seeds from trades.

"Sweet Woodruff" (not the same as Sweet William / Dianthus which I like) .
Galium odoratum?
Sweet Woodruff (Galium odoratum) ?

A shady ground cover would be great, if it's perennial and/or reseeds enough! I have lots of shade. I see it is "mesic" so it should like our dry summers without watering, but will it withstand 9 months of drizzle on clay? It sounds like "yes".

Plus, I love the other common names:
Our Lady's Lace
Sweetscented Bedstraw



Thanks very much for both tips.

Jewell - I love your new cinder block and brick bed. I use pine fines mixed into my soil and it does improve the sandy soil here. I use it in ALL my garden beds now.

beckygardener said: ... I use pine fines mixed into my soil and it does improve the sandy soil here. I use it in ALL my garden beds now.

Pine bark fines also help open up heavy clay soil, but my clay needs lots of compost also.

RickCorey said:I love your raised bed. Bricks, paving stones AND cinder blocks? Cool!

I brought an orange Calendula plant home from Lowes once, and liked its color and bloom shape, but it didn't come back. Usually I grow from seed, but that plant jumped into my shopping cart and wouldn't get out.

Now that I finally look it up, I see "short-lived perennial", if that's the type I bought.

Also - you learn something every day - "Calendula" is what POT MARIGOLDS are! I always thought about trying "pot marigolds" some year. I might even have some seeds from trades.

"Sweet Woodruff" (not the same as Sweet William / Dianthus which I like) .
Galium odoratum?
Sweet Woodruff (Galium odoratum) ?

A shady ground cover would be great, if it's perennial and/or reseeds enough! I have lots of shade. I see it is "mesic" so it should like our dry summers without watering, but will it withstand 9 months of drizzle on clay? It sounds like "yes".

Plus, I love the other common names:
Our Lady's Lace
Sweetscented Bedstraw



Thanks very much for both tips.

Thanks for the compliment on the boarders. I like the mixed materials and after many years on the same property find I change things up as the neighbors and my own plantings have matured, died or I have just changed my mind. I've moved bricks, pavers, rocks and now cinder blocks around to fit those changing needs. I like moveable hard scape .

My self sown calendula are just sprouting so perfect time to get seeds spread. If you are really interested in galium odorium I can lay it in flats as I pull it. You could plant it/lay it on the soil in the fall after the rains start. Just PM me. Before warned: People who have rocky soil hate it because it is then hard to contain as the fine root system breaks and it is persistent in its desire to spread. I just pull up the mats and toss them back onto the beds.

If you have any sunny areas trying California poppy seeds might be worth an experiment. They put down surprisingly deep roots and self sew also. I think they make a great show, but mine are growing in dry loamy soil.

I tried California Poppies one year, but in a shallow, moist bed. Few came back the next year, and none the third year. I plan to try again "one of these years", but they probably want well-drained soil, not clay that is drizzled on 8-9 months of the year.

Last time I grew generic yellow CA Poppies. Next time, 'Mikado' CA Poppies. Love the colors!




California Poppy Red (Eschscholzia californica 'Mikado')

>> I like moveable hard scape

Me, too. One neighbor moved out, and another moved in a few days later. The property line between our lots has always been a matter of opinion, so I hurriedly moved one wall of the bed between our properties about 12" and leveled the soil off in the wider bed. That took only a few minutes!

The new neighbor on that side does absolutely zero gardening (very bad legs) so he didn't mind. He won't even go out into his yard to cut some roses. He had herbicide sprayed everywhere and had bark laid down over landscape cloth.

>> If you are really interested in galium odorium I can lay it in flats as I pull it. You could plant it/lay it on the soil in the fall after the rains start. Just PM me.

I would be very interested, but I'm a terrible procrastinator. Next fall, if I'm sure I'll be able to plant them out and I may pay postage, I'll contact you. Thanks!

I wish I could get some sweet woodruff going I've tried several times without any luck!

@Arico, I love your terraced planting beds...

what are "railway sleepers" ?? is that what we call "ties" ? Under the actual rails, usually made from wood or concrete, and hold the rails in place?? I only ask because the ties are pretty much an integral part of my garden, my husband worked for the railroad for 39 years and had access to a few "supplies"

@Weedwhacker : that's exactly what railway sleepers are ^^

Weedwhacker said:I wish I could get some sweet woodruff going I've tried several times without any luck!

I used to think the same thing. But this past week I have been cleaning my neighbor's flower beds because she hurt her back. She has Sweet Woodruff coming up EVERYWHERE!

Rick, I have had calendula self-seeding in my herb garden (and elsewhere) for several years. It's a very jolly vibrant flower and seems to just grow where it wants. I don't remember if I started with a couple plants or if I seeded the area, but it pops up religiously every spring, to the point I have to weed most of it out. Same with feverfew, sweet Annie, and borage.

Thanks, Deb. If I buy a plant, I'll make sure to get something that self-seeds. (No sterile hybrids if I can avoid it!)

I guess a better approach would be to look for seeds of an OP variety known for re-seeding.

I was lucky enough to get about a hundred cement blocks from my neighbor. He was putting them out on his curb and I took them as he told me he just wanted to get rid of them. They replaced the wood boards I had. They were a welcomed addition as once I had them in place, they didn't move. Their age also helped as they were probably 10-15 years old and exposed to the elements throughout the years. There are some questions about concrete blocks in gardens but the studies were about new blocks only. I would hesitate to grow a Pepper plant directly in a concrete block that I just purchased due to the leaching issues involved. I have always been a scrapper as I also was able to get a bunch of paver blocks that again, were older and weathered. I used them in the paths around my gardens. I figure, if I can get it for free, why pay? I need to get some pictures of the beds but I need to give the soil a little time to dry out after all the snow and rain we had the past few days. Happy gardening everyone.