with Neal and am I too have overwintered callas in the ground successfully.

They're supposed to be hardy to zone 7 or 8, so it's a bit of a stretch here in zone 6, and there's always a chance of getting a colder than usual winter that will do them in, but if they're well mulched and in a protected area, they usually don't have a problem. I know of some folks in zone 5 who successfully overwinter Callas in the ground, close to the foundation of the house.

I know, I thought they would be OK, as they were dry. It was a pretty cold winter, though. The ones in the ground did OK, but the stacked pots croaked!

Susan did you lose your potted callas recently, like this past winter? It's been a wild and crazy year weatherwise.

No, last winter wasn't too bad here, I think we only had 1 or 2 nights in single digits. It was 2 or 3 years ago. Our pole barn has very thin walls, probably as cold inside as it is outside (as I learned).

I thought I posted here for help, however, apparently I posted for help in another place.

My clivia are struggling and I hope to find some help figuring out why and whaT i CAN DO THE HELP THEM SURVIVE.

tHEY WERE FINE ALL WINTER FROM nOVEMBER WHEN i GOT THEM UNTIL SOMETIME IN THE LAST SPRING BEGINNING OF SUMMER. All I know is they started to have green leaves go to yellow green, then yellow, then brown tips and the brown is slowly creeping up the the leaf towards the plant.

Dogpack.
That is why i am reading this thread. We had a very hot summer this year, around 47 Celsius in the shade. I lost my Clivias, they turned brown just like yours. I don't think they like the heat and full open sun, they prefer a cooler/shady (Tropical) environment. Just a thought, lets see what others have to say about it.
Regards.

Dogpack
I've had clivia go like that and it usually was from root rot. When I first started growing them I put them in ordinary commercial potting soil which stayed wet much longer than they like. I now grow them in chunks of coco fiber with some shredded coco fiber as well. The pot drains well and dries a bit between waterings though I do have to fertilize it more often during the growing season. Last year I found out they like a cool dry period in the winter with just enough water to keep them from shrivelling. They were in a 50 deg. F. room and rewarded me this past spring with LARGE tall spikes and lots of new growth. I would take yours out of their pots and check the roots. If they aren't thick white and firm, I'd change your potting medium for one that drains quickly, cut off all the black mushy roots, dust the end with a bit of horticultural sulphur or another fungicide and replant in the new medium. Don't water much until you see ( pull aside some medium) healthy new roots. Also when you water try not to get water in the crown. This was my experience but I'm no expert on clivia. Since I've switched to the coco fiber my clivia seedlings have really grown a lot better too, this year they more than doubled their size from the previous two years combined. Good Luck!

Dogpack, I have seen you on several forums. It would be of help to know what part of the country you are in, and the zone. I have several Clivias that grow here and bloom off and on all summer, but I'm on the west coast, zone 10, and our weather is probably different than yours. The best advice I can give you is Clivias, like all bulbs, need good drainage, and not alot of feeding. They do need either filtered or morning sun to bloom, but no Hot afternood sun. Our meager winter rains don't bother them, but the rain on the east coast would probably result in rot. Here, they never see frost, but in NY they probably need to be in the house over winter, with little or no water.
I'm all for privacy, but you would get better advice if you let people know what area you live in, and I understand that you are in a motorized chair, but don't know what your upper body strength might be, as far as moving heavy pots, etc. I did notice what looked like potting mix or debris in the leaf axils in your photos. That will also create problems with rot. If you prefere to maintain your privacy, you can gleen alot of information by reading through some of the forums. I think there is a beginning gardening forum on here that might give you some basics about drainage, potting mix, etc. I applaud your interest in gardening, but tropicals are tough for those in the north, so do some research.

Dogpack, I too am new to clivia, so I'm no expert. But looking back at your pictures, it looks as though you repotted your plants. Compared to those in your 1st photo, the pots you are now using are way too big. This would create a situation where the medium stays too wet, especially if it's peat based. And that leads to root rot. As Brian mentioned, your medium must drain freely. Clivias hate wet feet. That coupled with incorrect watering can cause the problems that you're facing. I live in zone 8 on the east coast where we get lots of rain, so my medium has to be free draining since I keep mine outdoors. I bring them in before frost and keep them in the garage where they rest until they start growing again. I hope this helps somewhat.

Its answered a few questions for me. Thank you.
Regards,
Masud.

Dogpack: It you are still paying attention, I'll throw my 2 cents worth in here. The only time I had any success growing this plant in my hot/humid climate before this year was when a large tree shaded it all day. The tree died 5 years ago and I've been wagging this plant around all over the yard ever since trying to find a place that suites it. The plant was from a departed friend or I would have pitched it a long time ago. Those yellow leaves shown in your pictures are all to familiar to me. My departed friend had also given me an Epiphyllum and from it I had learned that the leaves would yellow at the first hint of the hot sunlight striking them. Early spring, when the sun and temperatures were mild didn't seem to bother it, but when the heat started to go up and the hot sunlight began touching those leaves, they began turning a distinct banana color. The same seems to be true with the Clivia. I'd bring it out in the early spring, it would do fine for a few weeks until the hot sunlight would show up, and then presto - leaves burning (yellowing), fungus like growth, dieback - it was a mess. After 5 years of this, by June this year it had lost all of its leaves and I thought finally it was a goner. But as it was dying, it managed to pop out a pup (it wasn't done tormenting me yet). I took the pot and stuck it under my front porch roof where it would be out of my way and would receive no direct sunlight and (to be frank) quite a bit of neglect. I did not repot it. Surprise. As of today, the pup still has green leaves (a miracle) and I've now moved it into my unheated attached garage (as winter is coming). To summerize, keep the plant out of any direct sunlight. Even a few rays of hot summer sun striking the leaves seems to harm them and watch the watering. Those leaves are thick which usually means they are more drought tolerant then others and require less watering.........Good luck to both of us.....Maryl

First year flowering Clivia caulescens

Nice!!

Very pretty! Thanks for sharing.

My NOID Clivia is almost done blooming.

Looks like nice fat leaves and pretty flowers!

The snails love to munch on my clivia flowers so it is extremely hard to get a flowerhead without holes

@Susan, yes, wide leaves and bitone flowers.

@Dianne, sorry to hear that. Lucky you, you can grow them outdoors...year round.

Great photo Alessandro.

Just saw this old thread..and I have been reading about Clivia in other sites..and I think I want to try it. I like the idea of growing a flowering plant that is shade loving and not too water needy, especially here in our drought prone area.

I have seen amaryllis and hymenocallis bulbs..so how about Clivia..how big are the bulbs? Or are they always sold as seedlings already?