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Apr 21, 2011 8:01 PM CST
Name: Mike Stewart
Lower Hudson Valley, New York (Zone 6b)
I was one of the first 300 contributors to the plant database! Photo Contest Winner 2020 Garden Photography Roses Bulbs Peonies
Lover of wildlife (Black bear badge) Dog Lover Cat Lover Birds Enjoys or suffers cold winters Region: New York
Hi Darren,

A day or two before you transplant a rose, water the soil around the bush extremely well to ease digging and ensure that the plant is hydrated, so as to minimize transplant shock. There are even some transplant preparation liquids you can buy at nurseries that can help protect the plant from transplant shock. Then consider one of the following two options for actually moving the rose:

Option 1:
Using a sharpened, flat-headed spade (sharpened with a metal file), deeply perforate the ground in as wide a circle around the rose as you can manage, thereby severing the longer roots. I recommend a flat headed spade rather than a pointed or curved shovel, because roots can "slip" past the curve on a shovel, but not on a flat headed spade. After you've severed the roots, use the spade or a larger shovel to lift or "pop" the rose out of the ground (any unsevered roots will make this difficult, so be prepared to go in and cut them by hand with pruners). Take care to damage as few roots as possible due to pulling, tearing, or stress. You'll undoubtedly lose some roots in the process, so trim any broken ones. Place the plant in the new hole (dug ahead of time). Try to place the root "ball" into the ground without the dirt falling away from the roots as much as possible. Fill in dirt to minimize air pockets around the root ball, and water deeply to help fill in space and crevices with watery soil. Prune the canes back at least to half their original height (two thirds is OK, too) to compensate for the root loss (roots support the canes; the less cane there is to support, the less stress placed on the roots).

Option 2:
Larger plants, especially shrub roses, can be unwieldy to move. In this case, you can dig a narrow trench around the root ball and undercut it with a spade. Rather than "popping it out" with your shovel, tuck burlap or an old cloth underneath the plant, wadding enough to pull through to the other side, making a "hammock". Wrap and tie the cloth around the root ball to keep it intact, and lift the plant out of the hole. Place it in the new hole, and pull the cloth out from under it. Fill in dirt to minimize air pockets around the root ball, and water deeply to help fill in space and crevices with watery soil. Prune the canes back to compensate for the root loss.

Always water before, during, and after transplanting. Dehydration is the greatest risk.
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Apr 21, 2011 10:29 PM CST
Name: darren marting
LAS VEGAS VALLEY (Zone 9a)
heat tolerant (!) and tropicals...l
Charter ATP Member
I have a shovel that is flat on the end, not round so that is one point I learned and can use for certain. I would not think about dehydration as much as you mentioned as even though I live in the desert ...and this is happening at the Worst part of the year heat wise ~I'd still worry about over-watering! thanks for that too, i am sure the soil will have very Sufficient drainage. These are Bush roses, each with a 2.5 to almost 3 foot spread at the top; so I willl have to start at one end ant work my way through to the last. Thanks also for reinforcing the having a place ready to PUT the transplant, I am afraid I may have to actually wind up in a container for some, so Soil choice are my other concerns...
Mike thanks So much for the words of wisdom. I will copy these on my transplant clipboard and start prepping the ground soon. Thanks again! as a DGer from back in the day~I will be back, The Rose Cubit is great!
...all men have a purpose...let yours be the doing of good deeds...

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