Perennials form the backbone of easy, rewarding gardening. Unlike annuals, which you replant each spring, perennials settle in and return year after year, filling your beds with color while you do less work. Their roots reach deeper into the soil than annuals, so established plants tolerate drought better, and many spread readily, providing more flowers as time goes on. Compared with a new planting scheme every spring, perennials are thrifty: you buy them once and enjoy them for years.

What Perennials Are

A perennial is any plant that lives for more than two years. Technically, trees and shrubs are perennials, but gardeners use the term to mean herbaceous perennials: non-woody plants that die down to the ground when cold weather comes, then regrow from their roots each spring. They're the opposite of annuals (like petunias and zinnias, which live a single season) and biennials (like foxgloves, which take two years to set seed and die).

Most perennials flower for just a few weeks or months, not all summer like annuals do. But there's a bonus: you can plan a perennial border so something is always in bloom. Spring brings delicate columbines, early summer features peonies and delphiniums, midsummer offers black-eyed Susans, and fall can showcase asters and ironweeds. The garden changes with the seasons, and that rhythm is one of the greatest joys of perennial gardening.

Why Grow Perennials Instead of Annuals

Once established, most perennials need minimal upkeep compared to annuals. You don't buy new seedlings or transplants each year; you don't pull out old plants and replant. Instead, your perennials stay in place, their roots growing deeper and more far-ranging each season. Many spread readily, filling out garden spaces and providing more color as the years pass. After the first year, fertilizing is usually minimal (a single spring application is often enough), and watering chores are lighter than with shallower-rooted annuals. The result is a lower-maintenance garden that costs less to maintain and rewards patience with fuller, more impressive displays year after year.

Getting Started: Five Steps to Success

Choose the right garden site. Perennials prefer partial to full sun. Although some species tolerate deep shade, you'll have a much larger selection if your site receives at least a few hours of sun. Note your light conditions: full sun (six or more hours), part shade (three to six hours), or shade.

Choose the right plants. Evaluate your site for sun and soil type, then select plants suited to both. Check the USDA Hardiness Zone rating to ensure the plants you want are adapted to your growing region. If you live in Zone 5 (minimum winter temperature around -20 degrees Fahrenheit), choose plants rated to Zone 5 or colder. Plants rated to Zone 6 or warmer will likely be lost to winter injury.

Prepare the soil. Since your perennials will occupy the same space for years, good soil preparation pays dividends. Most perennials prefer moderately rich, loose, loamy soil with plenty of organic matter. If your soil is heavy clay or exceptionally sandy, add two to three inches of compost, peat moss, or ground bark before planting. Cultivate the soil to a depth of six inches or more, mixing in the organic amendment as you turn. In established beds where you're adding new perennials, work compost into the top six to eight inches.

Plant properly. Follow the planting instructions for each plant (see the sections on container plants and bare-root plants below), and water well after planting. Set the plant at the same depth it was growing in its nursery container, with the crown (where stems emerge from the roots) right at soil level.

Provide extra attention the first season. Mulch the bed with a thick layer of organic mulch, keeping it a few inches away from the base of the plants. Water regularly during the first growing season; a deep soaking once a week is better than a daily sprinkle. Keep the soil moist but not soggy, and avoid wetting the leaves to prevent disease.

Choosing Plants for Your Site

Hardiness Zones

The USDA Hardiness Zone Map divides the country into regions based on average minimum winter temperatures. It's your first filter when choosing perennials. If a plant is rated to Zone 5 and you garden in Zone 5, it should survive your winters reliably. If you live in a zone warmer than the plant's rating (e.g., you're in Zone 6 but the plant is rated to Zone 5 only), you may be able to grow it if your yard has a particularly warm microclimate, such as near a large body of water or a south-facing wall. But if you're starting out, stick with plants reliably hardy in your zone; there's no reason to risk losing them.

Sun and Shade

After hardiness, sunlight is your most important consideration. A plant's light preferences are not negotiable. Don't plant sun lovers under dense trees, and don't plant shade lovers where they'll bake in midday heat. Plant catalogs and labels spell out these preferences, so take them seriously. You might coax a sun lover to bloom in partial shade, but it will produce fewer flowers and weaker growth. Give it a spot where it can thrive.

Planning for Continuous Bloom

Most perennials have a distinct bloom period of a week to a month or more. Plant descriptions include the approximate bloom time (early summer, autumn, etc.). A few are continuous bloomers, but even these have peak bloom.

To have flowers all season, plan your garden with bloom times in mind. Select plants that flower at different times, and consider complementary colors and contrasting flower forms for visual interest. You might start with cool pastels in spring, shift to vibrant colors for summer bloomers, and finish with warm tones in fall. You can also plant annuals among your new perennials to fill gaps until the perennials are established and producing their full show.

Planting Perennials: From Container Stock to Bare Root

Container-Grown Plants

Container-grown perennials are widely available in 2-inch pots up to 2-gallon sizes. Larger plants cost more but establish faster. Choose vigorous plants with plenty of fresh, lush growth. A few roots peeking through the drainage holes are fine, but avoid seriously rootbound specimens.

Plant container perennials in spring or fall. Fall is favored by many gardeners (and nurseries often discount fall stock). Simply remove the plant gently, keeping the rootball intact, and plant it at the same depth it was in the container. Press the soil gently around it with your hands, leave a slight depression to hold water, and water well.

Bare-Root Perennials

Bare-root perennials are plants dug directly from the growing fields and shipped with moist packing material (wood shavings, shredded paper, or sphagnum moss) wrapped around the roots. They offer several advantages: they're cheaper than container plants, easier to ship, often establish quickly because their roots aren't pot-bound, and nurseries can maintain larger inventories, giving you more variety.

Inspecting and Storing

When your bare-root plants arrive, open the carton immediately and inspect them. The roots and packing should be moist but not soggy. A bit of mold is okay. Plant them as soon as possible; if you must wait, store them in a cool (35 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit), dark place for a day or two, keeping the plastic bag sealed and the packing material moist. For longer storage, heel them in temporarily: Dig a shallow trench, lay the plants on their sides with roots in the soil, cover the roots, and water well.

Planting Steps

  1. Remove plants from their packing and trim off any damaged or extra-long roots. Soak the roots in a pail of tepid water in the shade for about an hour before planting.

  2. Most perennials prefer full sun and well-drained soil. If you're preparing a new bed, till to about ten inches deep, add a few inches of compost, and till again. In established beds, work compost into the top six to eight inches.

  3. For each plant, inspect the crown (where stems emerge from the roots) to determine planting depth. The crown should sit at or just below soil level. If the plant has some top growth, the original soil line is visible. Build a cone of soil in the bottom of the planting hole.

  4. Do not add fertilizer to the planting hole.

  5. Place the plant in the hole, spreading the roots around the cone. Gently backfill and firm the soil as you go. Don't stomp on it; gentle hand pressure is enough. Leave a slight depression around the plant to hold water.

  6. Water thoroughly to settle the soil. If possible, plant on a cloudy day or in the evening to minimize wilting.

  7. Once established, lay a two to three inch layer of mulch around the plants to conserve moisture and suppress weeds, keeping the mulch a few inches back from the base.

First-Season Care

Keep plants watered during their first season. The soil can dry slightly between waterings but should never be overly dry or saturated. A weekly deep soaking will encourage an extensive root system, better than frequent light sprinklings. Apply a layer of compost each spring to nourish the soil and maintain its structure.

Growing Perennials from Seed

Growing perennials from seed costs much less than buying transplants, but it requires patience. Seeds of some perennials germinate readily; others need cold exposure before sprouting. And most won't flower until their second season or later. But if you're patient, seed-starting is rewarding, and several easy perennials will reward you with blooms the first year.

Easy Perennials from Seed

These varieties are gardener-friendly, germinate readily, and establish quickly:

  • Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) produces two to three inch gold-petaled, daisy-like flowers with dark centers from summer to frost. Plants grow two feet tall. Direct seed in spring through midsummer.

  • Blanket Flower (Gaillardia aristata) bears spectacular three to four inch yellow and red flowers on two and a half to three foot plants from June to frost. Easy to grow and direct seed.

  • Columbine (Aquilegia), such as the McKana's Giant Mix, has large spurred blossoms in white, pink, violet, and blue above ferny foliage. Direct seed May through July for flowers the following spring.

  • Sweet William (Dianthus) produces large clusters of small carnation-like flowers in white, pink, and red on 15-inch tall plants. Direct seed in spring.

  • Lupine (Lupinus), such as the Russell Mix, grows three feet tall with spikes of flowers in pinks, blues, and reds in June and July. Soak seeds in warm water for 24 hours before planting or nick the seed coat.

  • Purple Coneflower (Echinacea) blooms from midsummer until frost with large rose-pink daisy-like flowers. Plants tolerate heat and drought with few pest problems. Easy to direct sow.

  • Shasta Daisy (Leucanthemum x superbum) grows 18 to 20 inches tall, covered with white daisies with yellow centers in summer. Tolerant of tough growing conditions, with evergreen foliage in warmer areas. Direct sow in spring.

Three Methods for Starting from Seed

Sow directly in the garden in spring to early summer. Prepare a seedbed by tilling in organic material and raking smooth. Sow seeds where they'll grow, or make a nursery bed for seedlings that are later transplanted. Check the seed packet for specific needs: some seeds (blanket flower, columbine, Shasta daisy) need light to germinate and should only be pressed onto the soil surface, not covered. Others, like lupine, germinate better after soaking in warm water for 24 hours or nicking the seed coat.

Keep the seedbed moist until sprouts appear. When seedlings are a couple of inches tall, thin them according to packet directions. If you started in a nursery bed, move them to their permanent location when they're four to five inches tall. Spring sowings may flower the first year.

Sow seeds indoors in late winter. Sow seeds in flats or individual pots six to eight weeks before your last frost date. (For lupines, use peat pots so you won't disturb roots when planting out.) Move seedlings from flats to individual pots as they grow, keeping them under lights or in a sunny south-facing window. When frost danger passes, harden them off gradually and plant outside. Indoor starting gives you bigger transplants and increases your chances of first-season bloom.

Sow in midsummer for bloom the following year. July is a natural break in garden chores. Sow seeds in a nursery bed or in containers and place them in a partially shaded spot outdoors, such as under snow fence shade or in a cold frame with the top removed. Keep containers in the cold frame over winter or mulch nursery-bed plants to protect them. Next spring you'll have well-established plants ready to bloom.

Season-Long Care and Maintenance

A healthy perennial garden requires regular attention, but far less work than annual gardens. Follow these practices and your perennials will reward you with years of flourishing growth.

Watering

During the first growing season, keep perennials consistently watered. Check the soil by digging into the top two to three inches with a trowel. If it's dry, water until the soil is moist to six to eight inches deep. Soaker hoses and drip irrigation are more efficient than overhead sprinklers. Most perennial gardens need one to two inches of water per week, whether from rain or irrigation.

Avoid wetting the leaves late in the day, as this promotes fungal diseases. Water at the base of plants, in early morning or evening.

Deadheading

Remove spent flower stems just above a leaf or bud as flowers fade. This prevents seed formation, directing the plant's energy into growth and potential repeat blooms rather than seed production. Use scissors or hand pruners. Pinch off damaged leaves at the same time.

In fall, however, stop deadheading so seed heads can form. These feed birds and wildlife through winter and provide ornamental interest. You can also collect seeds for next year's planting.

Fertilizing and Feeding

Most perennials are not heavy feeders. Too much fertilizer can actually cause lanky, floppy growth. A single application of complete fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) in spring after the soil has warmed usually provides sufficient nutrients for the entire growing season. Follow package directions for the amount to apply.

Beyond that, the best approach is to feed the soil. Apply or renew organic mulch (shredded bark or leaves) to a two to three inch layer every year. Each spring, add a layer of compost. These organic materials improve soil structure, moisture retention, and drainage, feed soil microbes, and help make nutrients already in the soil more available.

Mulching

In spring, replenish organic mulch to a two to three inch layer. Keep it several inches away from plant bases to prevent rot and pest problems. Mulch conserves soil moisture, moderates temperature, suppresses weeds, and gradually breaks down to improve the soil.

Weeding and Edging

Remove weeds as you spot them. Use a hoe with a sharp blade to slice them off just below the soil surface, or pull them by hand. Keeping the edges between garden and lawn well-defined and tidy is satisfying and prevents grass from creeping in. Use a half-moon edger or sharp spade, pushing straight down about three to four inches and pulling the handle toward you to remove a wedge of soil. Repeat around the perimeter. Compost the turf scraps.

Pest and Disease Management

Inspect your plants regularly, especially during summer, for signs of trouble. Look for leaves with holes or ragged edges; sticky, discolored, or spotted leaves; chewed or abnormally growing flowers or buds; or damaged stems. The most valuable phrase in plant health is "at the first sign of attack." If you catch a problem early and treat it promptly, you'll need minimal insecticide or fungicide. Once a pest or disease is established, stronger measures are necessary.

If you find a problem, take samples to a local garden center with experienced staff or contact your cooperative extension service's Master Gardeners for identification and advice.

Seasonal Care Schedule

Spring. Cut back dead growth from the previous year. Pull early-emerging weeds. Divide and transplant overgrown plants (see the section on dividing below). Replenish mulch layers. Apply slow-release fertilizer. Inspect for pests and treat if needed.

Summer. Pinch back leggy growth. Deadhead spent flowers continuously. Water as needed (one to two inches per week). Stake tall flowers like delphiniums, hollyhocks, garden phlox, and peonies to prevent flopping. Watch for diseases and pests.

Fall. Plant new perennials (fall is an excellent planting time). Stop deadheading and let seeds form for bird food or seed collecting. Prepare tender plants for winter by digging and storing marginally hardy perennials.

Winter. Add mulch over tender plants for protection. Leave seed heads for birds. Prune back large perennials as needed. Cover delicate perennials with breathable fabric if your climate calls for it. In cold climates, leave tall perennial stems standing to trap snow, providing natural insulation.

Dividing Perennials

When an established perennial produces fewer flowers, or the center of the plant looks sickly while the outer margins thrive, it's time to divide. Or if you simply want to share a plant with a friend or fill in gaps in your garden, dividing is the solution. Most gardeners eventually divide their perennials.

Timing and Preparation

The best time depends on your region. In cold climates, divide in early spring so divisions establish before winter. In warm climates with hot summers, fall is better, allowing plants to settle through the mild winter. Whichever season, choose a cool, cloudy day. If the ground is dry, soak the soil around the plant thoroughly and let it drain while you gather tools: shovel, garden fork, pruners, and a sharp knife. Trim back the leaves or stems to six to eight inches to make handling easier.

Dividing Techniques

You have two approaches. You can dig up the entire clump and separate it into smaller sections, or you can use a shovel to slice down and remove sections, leaving part of the plant in place. Generally, digging the whole clump and carefully splitting it is more successful.

Place the entire clump on a tarp in a shady spot. Check whether any sections naturally separate. Some perennials have roots that split easily; others are a tangled mass requiring careful teasing or prying with two garden forks placed back to back. Still others have fleshy roots that you'll need to slice with a sharp knife. Prune away dead and damaged tissue, and make sure each section has a portion of both roots and leaves.

Replanting and Care

If you're giving divisions away, place them in containers and pack moist soil around the roots. Water them well and keep them in a cool, shady spot.

Plant divisions as soon as possible, ideally just before a rainy spell (cool temperatures and gentle moisture help them recover from the stress of dividing). Set them at the same depth they were in the original bed. Water well. For the first season, keep them consistently watered.

Plants That Resist Division

Some perennials deeply resent being disturbed and shouldn't be divided: monkshood (Aconitum), false indigo (Baptisia), bleeding heart (Dicentra), lupine (Lupinus), peony (Paeonia), and poppy (Papaver). These are best left in place or propagated vegetatively through cuttings if you need new plants.

Recommended Perennials for Every Garden

While this guide covers general growing techniques, some perennials deserve special mention for their reliable performance and easy care. For heat- and drought-tolerant varieties, explore Easy Care Perennials. If you want to extend blooming into fall, see Fall Blooming Perennials: An Alternative to Mums. And for shady spots where ground covers matter, consider Solomon's Seal.

The Perennial Advantage

Perennials reward patience and good soil preparation with years of increasing beauty, minimal annual expense, and a garden that evolves and improves with time. Whether you start from seed for economy, buy established plants for faster results, or multiply what you have through division, the fundamentals remain the same: choose plants suited to your site, prepare the soil once, and then let the plants do what they do best: return reliably, year after year, with growing abundance and color.