Hi everyone. Wondering if all the leaves that I removed do to rust will result in no new leaves in those spots next year or just bare trunks?
I only removed about 30% and treated the remainder. Thank you.

No, Bob, leaves don't regrow. Leaves come from those little tufts of leaves at the apex of the stems. In fact, each lost leaf will leave a "scar" on the stem, and those scars are distinctive of plumeria, "smiley-faces".

Yes, Ken, I knew that new leaves normally generate from the terminal apex - - but was hoping that if the leaves were physically removed instead of dormancy loss,, that they might regenerate. I guess it was a fairly stupid question but appreciate your answer. So, as my trees grow year after year the only way to get more green in the lower portions is to cut and remove a branch while hoping for new growth at that point?? Thanks again!

No question is "stupid", Bob. That's the way you and I learn. I drive "experts" crazy by asking all sorts of questions. Generally, these trees grow like trees, with a "trunk" (I call it a main-stem) and branches (I call them tips). There is the occasional odd-ball that wants to grow tips at the base of the stem and there's always the miniatures and dwarfs, that grow nothing like a tree. The best way to achieve branching is by having your plant(s) bloom. Cutting the stem or branches usually results in branching, but that's never a "for sure". I've had lots of stems and tips that were cut and never branch, or perhaps taking 1-2 yr. to do so. You never know what will happen with a cut plant. The third way is "time", just letting your tree mature and branch as it grows taller.

Hi Ken. Thanks again for your answer and continued support to all of us new to Plumeria culture. I guess I was hoping that breaking a leaf off because of rust or whatever (instead of natural dormancy onset drop) would be somewhat equivalent to breaking off a side branch by lawn mower accident or cutting a side branch off main trunk 4 " from main. A neighbor's landscape maintenance person knocked off a side limb at the juncture with the main Plumeria trunk and it grew a new tip and subsequent side trunk. Thanks again ! ! !

Thank you Ken for sharing your knowledge.

@pinkiris this is beautiful

Finally! After a year of sulking! My very first plumeria (received as cutting in 2009) is blooming again. Frost tried to kill this multiple times already but it managed to survive.

That's a nice flower. The variety, Gigi?

Not sure. This was a cutting from a plant sale and was supposed to be seed grown from a local vendor. The closest I can find is a Pinwheel.

Gigi, That's wonderful! TWELVE YEARS. Survival speaks to your excellent care and knowledge.

PlumeriaBob9 said:Gigi, That's wonderful! TWELVE YEARS. Survival speaks to your excellent care and knowledge.

New blooms from my cutting - Blooms rarely but tulip shape and fragrance makes it worth the wait:


A seedling bloom:

Tulip, like my Valerie Irene, Gigi?

No Ken, more like this.
https://www.bradsbudsandblooms...

I see, Gigi. I guess Brad has a little different take on "tulip-shapes".

drdawg said:I see, Gigi. I guess Brad has a little different take on "tulip-shapes".

Yes I think it is because the petals will not open all the way. It stays partially open just like tulips. The mature plants will have huge blooms.

Got it, Gigi. Thanks.

This is one of my first-time blooming seedlings, a variety that I've just named. This is the best "red" I've ever grown from seed and I think that the pollen donor was Scott Pratt. I sure see a lot of similarities between these two. I love the depth of color and the veining. Later bloomings might be even more spectacular.


Plumeria rubra DD's Ruby Red

Plumeria rubra Scott Pratt